Two Types of Boaters - Head Repair

There is a very common phrase tossed about in the boating world.  It goes somethings like "There are two types of boaters.  Those that have run aground and those that have not yet run aground."  We think there is another good phrase.  Those that have rebuild their heads and those that haven't. 

Just like a new $400 model!

This may not interest everyone as heads (marine toilets) are not that exciting.  However, after rebuilding our aft head, we did learn some things we thought we should pass on.  Some of you may already know these things.  If you aren't interested in heads, then feel free to skip this.  It's long.  Sorry. 

Vented loop looking good

There are a couple of big debates among boaters when it comes to heads.  The first one is fresh water flush (out of the fresh water tanks) vs intake water (sea water or lake water).  I don't want to debate that here.  Everyone makes their own decisions on this.  There are pros and cons both ways.  We have chosen to use sea water.  For our cruising plans, we don't want to sacrifice ANY fresh water for non-essential use, even though we have big water tanks and a watermaker.  The second is toilet paper in the head vs in the waste basket.  Again, not going to debate it here as it's a personal choice, but we are toilet paper IN the head people - sparingly!!  And nothing else except pee and poo of course.

3 of the 5 areas we had to clear just to work on this project

FYI - Our heads are made by Raritan.
This all started because our aft head basically would not flush.  Since we have two heads onboard, we just put that project aside and have been using the forward head for the past year or so.  In the past we had no desire to waste part of a week long vacation working on a marine head unless we absolutely had to.  However we knew we needed to dive into it at some point to fix it.  We jumped in on Thursday to figure it all out.  This meant pulling all the stuff out of the areas where various valves and hoses are - five areas total......thus stacking stuff up in other areas - a common theme for projects lately.  All the hoses and clamps looked to be in good condition with no oozing or rusted clamps and we suspected the Y valve to be the culprit.  As you know, this is the valve that directs the flow overboard or into the holding tank and it was really tough to move either way.  We took it apart and found quite a bit of calcium buildup.  According to boat system guru, Nigel Calder, "in time, calcium deposits similar to the deposits in a tea kettle, build up in all toilets that use salt water for flushing on discharge valves, lines and seacocks."  We dumped the Y valve handle into a container filled with vinegar and watched it immediately bubble away on the calcium.  Next we completely disassembled the Y valve body and peered into each of the three hoses.  Yes, each had calcium build up.  Tom began chipping away with a screw driver and we soon realized we couldn't break it all free.  After a dash to the hardware store, we tried a household plumbers snake which worked only marginally.  A little vinegar down the discharge hose (coming from the head) at the Y valve end and it immediately bubbled up and everywhere.  Whoa!  This meant more calcium build up than we thought.  Next step was total removal of the discharge hose running from the vent loop to the Y valve.  Not an easy task.  Everything was tightly installed but we managed to get it out.  Tom took it out on the concrete dock and gave it a couple of good whacks on the dock.  TONS of calcium chunks dumped out.  We were astonished.  A few more whacks and even more came out.  Thinking it was clear, we tried to run hose water through it to discover it was STILL completely blocked.  Tom held both ends and whacked the center several times to get the remaining build up out - it was amazing how much was in there.  Once cleared, we left the hose out on the dock in the sun to heat up which helped greatly with re-installation.  We did a test flush/pump.  Still not working.  Hum?  Next we tackled the toilet side of the equation.  Tom had previously ordered two repair kits specifically for this job and for future use.  In order to check the flapper and joker valves, we had to basically take apart the entire head because of limited access to the screws for those two valves.  This was no easy task in such a tight space.  Tom got it all disconnected and we called it a successful day having cleared 1/2 of the discharge hose and Y valve, reconnected them and then dissasembling the entire toilet.  Miller time!

Household snake worked only so so

Day two.  Tom moved the entire toilet out into the main salon so we could better work on it.  He took each section apart as I read from the exploded schematic drawing.  We replaced all the parts we could using most of the repair kit.  Not all parts applied.  I made note in our manual for future reference what we used and didn't use.  The joker and flapper valves definitely needed replacing.  Also suspect was lack of lubrication of the piston and a few other parts.  We also pulled the discharge hose running from the head to the vent loop.  A thorough whacking on the dock revealed it too also had quite a bit of calcium build up.  This was sort of a fun event for us....the whacking of the hose on the dock.  Sadly/luckily, we are that easily entertained!  We gave everything a good cleaning as we put it all back together.  Soon it was looking like the $400 new model at West Marine.  YES, four hundred dollars for a new marine toilet!  With everything back in place and tightened down, we did a test flush/pump  - success!  It worked like it should.  Woo Hoo. 

 

Y Valve

Summary notes.  This job was not as nasty as it sounds.  The head had not been used in quite some time so that may be why.  The calcium itself is not yucky as you might think.  It comes off in gray, chalky, chunks with gray water in the hoses. There were not any gross smells. We did have some water leak out while disconnecting things but we were prepared with a small bucket and rags.  The right tools helped.  Pipe sealant, rebuild kit, manual for the head, Nigel Calder's book Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual (a MUST have for every serious boat owner), knee pad, flashlight/headlamp, and picnic tablecloth / drop cloth (for sitting the toilet down in the main salon).  Ratcheting box end wrenches are a MUST for working in tight spaces.  Maintenance going forward is vinegar with each flush - I keep a spray bottle in each head.  Additionally, a monthly dosing of vinegar should keep the calcium at bay.  We will also keep it lubed as well.  FYI Veggie oil may or may not be the best for this according to Nigel.  We both feel we need to do the same on the forward head at some point soon.  We would prefer to do it now, while it is still working fairly well.  The final step prior to leaving the dock will be to chain the Y valve on both heads so that it will only discharge into the holding tank.  The poop police are reportedly out in force checking Y valves while people are underway - seriously.   
Have you checked your head lately?  Do you know the condition of your discharge hoses?  Do you have the correct rebuild kit onboard?  Things to think about.
Again, I realize this is really long but we thought it might help someone else out.