Over The Road Island Transportation

The above taxi is the most common mode of transportation in the USVI.  Some are small like the one above, while others have 5 or even 6 rows of seats.  Most are decorated up very colorfully.  Many are airbrushed with pictures and portraits on the side and back - think pimp my Island Taxi type stuff.  On St Thomas, there are Safari buses.  These are just like the above but bigger with 6 rows that the seat 6 people in each row....side by side and at times practically sitting in your neighbors lap depending on the size of the people in your row.  The Safari buses look just like the tourist taxis but Safari Buses are what the locals use and cruisers.  Tourist taxis cost anywhere from $10 to $20+ per ride.  Safari Buses $1 or $2 if you ride the entire line  - thus cruisers use them!

Custom door - most jeeps were new, 4 door models

The most common mode of transportation on St John Island (aside from tourist taxis) is the Jeep.  They are everywhere.  This makes a lot of since with the steep hills.  There must be a dozen places to rent jeeps so the tourists not riding the tourist taxis were all roaming around St John Island in rented Jeeps - all the while trying to remember to drive on the left side of the road.  This made all our walking on the roads very exciting and at times a tad scary.  And yes, the US Virgin Islands are left hand driving.  I read an attempt to change that several years ago was strongly put down by the taxi drivers association.  Left hand driving intimidates some people enough that they won't rent cars and thus will need taxis. 

We took this for our friends Wayne and Jan

I was surprised by the lack of scooters and motorbikes.  We have visited other islands (Bermuda) where the island is overrun with scooters but not the Virgin Islands. 

Cruz Bay - St John USVI

Port channel into Cruz Bay

Cruz Bay is the only place to clear Customs and immigration into the USVI on St John.  The harbor is somewhat on the small side in terms of bays but very developed.  There is a reef on each side of the entrance and then two short channels.  The starboard channel is for big, fast ferry boats -island to island.  The port channel is for big, fast touristy boats (the kind that take you and 50 of your closest friends out for a 3 hour tour).  All moorings are private.  The cruising guide said the only anchorage was in the Y between the channels.  It was PACKED with local boats.  Some on moorings, some anchored.  No room to squeeze in.  None.  

Middle Y section and then starboard channel - sorry for the blur

There is a very small anchorage (4 boats max with very little scope out) just to the left of the port channel that has a 3 hour time limit.  However, it gets shallow fast.  All the boats coming and going in the channel (very close to this 3 hour anchorage as well as the starboard channel -which isn't really that far away) race in and out with very little regard to their wake, much like Lake Perry back in KS.  Can you say deja vous?  

Very close to shore and rocks

Because of all these factors, most yachts take a mooring ball around the corner at Caneel Bay and then dinghy around to Cruz Bay to check in.  Warning Caneel Bay is very, very rolly due to swell and numerous passing ferries.  If you are prone to seasickness at all – Caneel Bay could be tough.

sv Honey Ryder rolling in Caneel Bay

 In addition to checking in, Cruz Bay is a good place to provision at either the Dolphin or Starfish grocery stores and hit the ACE Hardware.

Dolphin grocery store - good selection

Very narrow aisles - notice it gets even narrower towards the far end

The National Park HQ is here and there is a huge assortment of restaurants and bars to choose from.  There is also a US Post Office for mailing and receiving packages.  Something we wish we would have known earlier as we had a package sent to Redhook on St Thomas.  

There are three dinghy docks- basically parking lots for all the dinghies.  One by the National Park HQ and the other two are on each side of the island to island ferry dock.    

Caneel Bay Rainbow

Late Thursday afternoon we moved over to Caneel Bay on St John Island USVI so we could get provisions in Cruz Bay (right around the corner).  Check out the double rainbows that popped up after a morning squall.

We were so close I couldn't fit the entire bow in one picture.

Maho Bay and Francis Bay Beach Pics

We understand it's been really cold back in the USA this past week.  This postings for all you readers that are chilly.  Sorry it's delayed....although I doubt you are done with cold weather.

Looking west from east end of Maho Bay beach

Looking east from west end of Maho Bay beach

SO clear

How could he resist?

For whatever reason, these are two separate bays but they sort of seem like one big one.  Regardless, they are wonderful.  Especially Maho Bay.  See for yourself.

Maho Bay mooring field

Francis Bay mooring field

The below two cracked people me up.  Two days in a row, they would get into this inflatable kayak, kayak out into the mooring field, tie up to a mooring and just chill.  Generally the one in front watched the turtles and fish, while the other one napped.  Yesterday they switched.  The one in front napped, while the other watched turtles and fish.....Or maybe it was the same napper, different position in the kayak.  Hum?  Either way...Don't misunderstand, I am not knocking it.  I think it's awesome.  It was just an odd sight in the mooring field.  I am not sure where they kayaked from.  Maybe Cinnamon Bay campground.

Tourist Trap -St John Island USVI

Small little place 

Seriously small - this was all there was to it

We hiked from Great Lameshur Bay up a very, very, very, very steep hill/mountain.  1000 ft up according to one map/chart I looked at later.  Then we hike down the very, very, very, very steep other side. 

View towards Coral Bay

Why?  Food of course.  Tourist Trap was over in Concordia, past SaltPond...for those following along with maps/charts.  It was good food.  We ate a lot.  We earned it with our hike up and over.  They had BBQ that was as good as Kansas City BBQ - big task to get even close!

Then we had to start the long, steep hike back.  Oh no.  Luckily, I looked pathetic (and old) enough that some young tourist picked us up (in an old school Ford Bronco without the top - way kewl!)  and took us up the very, very, very, very steep hill so we only had to walk back down.  Whew! 

They call these Banana -keets (I think) but now I can't find that reference anywhere - hum?

VIERS and More Kansas Peeps

After touring the kewl Tektite museum at VIERS, we were walking down the path and a gal came out of the office and said  "Hi.  How are you two?"  I told her how much we enjoyed the museum.  "I am so glad.  Do you have any questions?"

She proceed to give us the low down on the VIERS camp, the activities, the groups they host there, the researchers and the volunteers.

Seems her husband is the site manager since early this past summer (I think).  They came down from the USA.  She sort of sheepishly grinned and said "we are from....of all places.....Kansas."  OMG!  I told her we were from Kansas City and she nearly fell out.  She couldn't believe it.  We continued talking for quite some time.  Her husband came along a little later so we got to meet him as well.  Carla (might be Karla) and Tony are neat people living a unique life as the managers of VIERS on St John Island USVI.  If you are looking for "something different", you might think about being a volunteer here.

VIERS and Tektite

Just up the gully from Great Lameshur Bay is the Virgin Islands Research Station.  It's an awesome Eco-Camp.  Click the link before to learn more.

On the grounds they had the Project Tektite Underwater habitat Museum.

Big painting of Tektite greets you as you walk in the door

Model of Tektite

What?  You don't know what that is?  Neither did we.  It was a join project of the Dept of Interior, Navy, NASA and GE.  They built an underwater habitat for research.  Operated in 1969 and 1970.

This little museum is located in one of their small camp buildings (much like their cabins).  Some guy pointed the way - "Door is unlocked.  Just to the right, inside the door you will find the light switches.  Please switch them all back off when you leave."  They ask for a small donation of $3 each.  It was well worth the $6 as it was fascinating.  We took our time, wondering around the exhibit. 

Underwater dive gear - very bleeding edge for the time

Okay - I know I ask you to click a lot of links for more info, but if you feeling lazy below are the basics from the plaques inside the museum.  I know....boring.  Now maybe you will use the links I give you!

 
      

Reef Bay Sugar Mill - St John Island USVI

We also hiked from Little Lameshur Bay over to Reef Bay where there are ruins of an old sugarcane mill.  Very interesting stuff. 

Sugarcane played such an important role in the history of the Caribbean islands.  A violent, bloody, and often sad history it seems but of course it is much more complicated than that mere statement.  *The National Park Service doesn't really touch on all of that in their historic plaques.  How could they and do it justice!  I am reading a book on it now.

Anyway...there are actually a couple sugar mill ruins on St John but this one is really well preserved.

Impressive stone walls leading to the fresh waterfall and Petroglyphs and then along the sugar cane plantation grounds.  Miles of stone wall piled very high.  No doubt built by the slaves on this plantation.  After seeing first hand the dense foliage and topography of these islands, it is mind boggling to think that they cleared entire island landscapes to plant sugarcane.