Coming into the mouth of the Essequibo River |
Dec 15th, 2016
We arrived at the mouth of the Essequibo River late
afternoon but decided to anchor out versus going in. By going in, I mean through a series of
fishing nets, tall poles (some broken off at water level) and shoals.
Poles with fish nets - can you see them? |
We had waypoints from the guidebook and those that have gone
before. However….not our style to head into an unknown river in the late afternoon hours as the the sun is setting.
Part of this pole is missing - gulp |
NOTE - While it is very shallow (20ft or so) for many miles off shore, anchoring out there was no picnic. The current pushed our bow off and this meant we were broadside to the waves most of the night rocking back and forth and back and forth. Not fun! Next time we will probably slow down and heave to in order to time the arrival to go in with the tide.
The Essequibo River is the third largest river in South
America. Think Mississippi River sort of
big and perhaps bigger. The delta is
probably three miles wide. The river
continues to be at least a mile wide if not more as we continue up the river
. I think the correct term is up river
but it seems odd. Why? Because we are headed south, in my brain that
is “down”. In the continential USA going
south is also going down…..towards the equator.....”We're heading down to Texas for the weekend.” “Hey all y'all. We are going down south to Geor-gia for a week on holiday.” However, in the case of
Guyana as we head south, away from the coast and up the river, we are in fact, also headed up in terms of the elevation – all be it slightly. But we are also headed down in terms of
latitude. Confused yet?
Bustling port of Parika |
The Essequibo should be called the chocolate river. Because of all the run off, silt and such, the
river is the color of chocolate milk. I
couldn’t help but think of the scene from the movie Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory where the chubby German kid (Augusta Gloop) starts drinking from the chocolate river –
“Augustus! Augustus! Sweetheart, save some room for later. And then
the kid falls in and gets sucked up the tube and thus we learn our first moral
of the story. Ompa, ompa, doppy-a-dee-do.... For those of you that are
foo foo coffee drinkers, the Essequebo is the color of a good mochaccino.
Chocolate river |
Ship parking? Repair? |
The bulk of the population of Guyana lives along the coast
and along the rivers. It quickly became
apparent that the rivers are a major source of transportation and for some, the
only mode of transportation. As we
travel up river, water taxi's whiz by full of people with luggage and goods
piled on top. A huge ferry is docked at
Parika but loading to go somewhere up river.
We pass a tiny (compared to its ocean going brothers) cargo ship headed
into the heart of Guyana. A couple of
barges push across the river here and there, one is loaded with timber. Small sawmills dot the shoreline and the air
is thick with the smell of fresh cut wood.
Lumber delivery |
I noticed the color of the river before you even mentioned it. Kinda icky compared to the beautiful clear turquoise seas in the Caribbean, though I like the comparison to the chocolate river in one of my very favorite childhood movies! Makes it a bit more appetizing. :)
ReplyDeletePirogues look better suited to Florida lagoons than Brilliant Star has been.
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