Sunday, January 22, 2017

Off The Charts In Guyana - Bernard and Sharmilla's Place

Bernard and Sharmilla's place

From our anchorage at Baganara Resort a little further up the Essequibo River is the home of Bernard and Sharmilla.  They are ex-cruisers who swallowed the hook – that is to say they stopped cruising and moved on land.  They receive cruisers when any wander along.  By wander along, I mean dinghy up near but not too near their dock on the river.  Why?  Their guard dogs are proper guard dogs so any visitors need to stay far enough off the dock until one of them comes down, retrieves the dogs and puts them on their leashes.

Sharmilla and Bernard

The first group of cruisers had already visit Bernard and Sharmilla prior to our arrival so we waited.  When sv Giraff arrived, they were interested and rowed over.  Finding them both home and getting invited ashore, Peter radioed us on the handheld VHF and we joined them.
The house

Their place is beautiful.  They have 40 acres total.  Of that, probably 10% is maintained.  The rest is rainforest with trails that Bernard keeps up with his cutlass for walking.  Maintained isn’t the right word to describe what they have accomplished.  The grounds are fabulously manicured so that it looks like a resort.  The river side is layers and layers of colorful tropical flowering bushes.  The back is edible things.  Yummy edible things -  Coconut trees, pineapples, passion fruit, golden apple, bananas, breadfruit, breadnut, pomel, papaya, starfruit, soursop, avocado, wax apple, cocoa, lemons, limes, tamarind, and of course mangoes.  Whew!  It was truly impressive.  And I probably forgot a few.  
Wax apple

Soursop

Okra or ochro ( in the Caribbean)

The other focus was their orchids.  They had many different types growing on various trees, delicate little blossoms.  Some were local.  Others came from far away.  It seems they picked many up as they circumnavigated the globe.  Bernard told a funny story of when they arrived in New Zealand and wanted to spend time traveling around the country.  However, what to do with their orchids on the boat?  So he took them ashore, climbed a tree and secured them high up in the tree.  Then they took two months to travel around and see the country.  New Zealand being in the tropical latitudes, when they returned, the orchids were not only alive and well but thriving.  Now before you wig out…..Bernard is a biologist and knows the danger of foreign, invasive species.  “But orchids are not aggressive and grow very slowly.  There was NO danger of introducing anything bad.”  However, this is not recommend by the writers and editors of this blog.  
orchid

orchid

Apparently Bernard, originally from Germany, sailed into Guyana and met Sharmilla.  They fell in love and he convinced her to sail around the world with him.  I think that was in 2000 or so.  They returned and secured the land 2008 and built in 2009.  I said to Sharmilla “So are you first Guyanese woman to circumnavigate the globe?”  She smiled, giggled and then shrugged her shoulders “Oh, I don’t know.”    
Peter swinging on vines in Bernard's rainforest

Anna's turn
The house is hexagon shaped surrounded by porch all the way around.  The roof is of course set up for water collection.  Solar panels give them the power they need.  We noticed an SSB/ham radio tuner and antenna as well as a small dish of some sort.  They have email somehow because she gave me their old boat card with their email on it.  They sold their cruising sailboat in January of this year.  They have a river pirogue.  The big outboard motor fell in the river so they only have a small outboard to get them to and from Bartica.  The property can only be accessed by water.  There are no roads.  This means a trip into Baritca or other when they need or want anything outside what they have.

As much as they love it here, they are selling.  Bernard is 82 and just doesn’t have the energy to keep up the place as it is now.  They plan to move into Georgetown. 
Beautiful grounds

They are an interesting couple and it was fun meeting them.  
So lovely

Their view of the Essequibo River

Another interesting character in Guyana is Joyce. She is an expat jazz singer from the USA.  Part of our circus went to visit her one day.  Tom was along, I missed it.  He thoroughly enjoyed visiting with her.  


Off The Charts In Guyana - Sex in the Interior


11-13-16
Okay, hot topic.  You might find it shocking and perhaps think it is not appropriate blogging fodder.  Fine.  You can skip this one.  I personally find it another interesting insight into another country and culture.   

I spotted a billboard in Georgetown that addressed HIV.  There was also a poster in one of the staff rooms at Iwokarma that addressed Sexually Transmitted Diseases.  The Brandt Guidebook mentioned prostitution in the mining camps.  Yesterday, in Itaballi we had lunch in a tiny little place on the main street.  There were three posters that comprised of the main wall décor in this place - other than a faded 1980’s pic of a married couple on their wedding day.  The posters were 1.)  Something about - HIV Doesn’t Change Who You Are.  2.)  Something like - What Do You Know About Sexually Transmitted Diseases?  3.)  My Safety Is My #1 Priority.  This last one appeared at first glance to be something about general safety, perhaps in the logging industry.  The guy in the picture had on work clothes and a hard hat and there appeared to be wood or logs in the background.  However, the woman in the picture was wearing shorts, a tube top and standing with her hand on her hip exuding attitude.  Upon closer inspection, the poster was about importance of wearing condoms for protection.  Additionally, while in Itaballi, I spotted a car with a bumper sticker saying something like "No Condom, No Sex."

Developing countries have to allocate all resources carefully.  I find it interesting and encouraging that they are using some resources and money this way.  Public health is so important.  Sexual health included.  An entire mining camp of people with sexually transmitted diseases is not good for health or the economy either.  I know that sounds harsh but it is true.    

Off The Charts In Guyana - Sunday Fun Day Down at the Crossroads - Itaballi



Larry and Randy - our river pirogue on the right....do you see it?  Welcome Aborad.  Who is Aborad?
Still a Sunday Fun Day


11-13-16
I think previously mentioned this funky little ferry crossing.  I say funky but only because it’s so different from anyplace we’ve been.  It’s a crossroads really.  That is what attracted me to this place the first time we stopped by.  It was a buzz with humanity, the perfect people watching place. 
 
Main street

Near the end of the retail part of main street
Jim wandering around

Being Sunday, it wasn’t as busy as previous other stops.  Our crazy little circus of cruisers wondered around the main drag and a few side streets taking it all in and looking like aliens from another planet as we did it.
Lunch
We eventually settled on a small spot for lunch.  There were just enough tables but not enough chairs.  Tom and Jim had to kneel at their table to eat.  Most opted for the chicken curry.  Tom and I went with the cookup (rice and peas cooked in coconut milk) and a piece of fried chicken.  Banks beer to wash it all down. 
No browsing the aisles here but we did score purpleheart rolling pins


Just before lunch Jim, Kathy (sv Inishnee) Tom and I had wondered into a nice, new hardward/general store.  The building was huge.  The downstairs was the store and upstairs was obviously the home.  However, the store was not filled with much and we couldn’t wonder around.  It was all behind a cage – floor to ceiling.  Hanging on display from the cage was the various items you could buy.  Pots, pans, flashlights, hammers, shorts, shoelaces, razors, etc….a wide assortment.  One item caught our eye – it was a small rolling pin made out of local purpleheart wood.  It was gorgeous.  $1000 Guyanese dollars or $5 US.  Kathy bought one for their boat.  Tom asked if I wanted one too.  “It’s kewl but when do I use a rolling pin?  No.”  But during lunch Kathy was showing everyone and I, along with half our group decided we did want a purpleheart rolling pin. David bought two for presents.  I was worried they would run out but they didn’t and I got my very own purpleheart rolling pin, which is now called my K-State purpleheart rolling pin.  Have I used it to roll anything out?  No.  But someday I will.       
Sign, sign, everywhere a sign

Just back from the interior
Bench for riders, petrol, cooking gas, spare tyre and gear box and your pet turtle...what else could you need

One of the things we like about the cruising life is that it allows us to stay longer in places.  This in turn allows us to get deeper into the local life.
At the very least, easy to access the engine

Repair shop in front of someones house
  
Fuel trucks