Barbuda to Antigua

March 23rd
We set sail from Barbuda around 8:45 today.  Before exiting Low Bay we had all three sails up (main, headsail and staysail).  It was an absolutely perfect day and we happily sailed along in winds 12-14.  s/v Honey Ryder averaged 6+ knots and saw a top speed of 7.4.  No matter.  We were just content cruising along.

We arrived back in the Jolly Harbor anchorage six hours later.  Wonderful sail!!

Codrington Barbuda

Town center of Codrington

March 20th -After the Frigate Bird Colony,  Goldilocks took us into the only village on Barbuda - Codrington.  Approximately 1800 people live on Barbuda.  The island has done a really good job of keeping growth aka hotels and tourism to a minimum, thus preserving the natural beauty of Barbuda.

Goldilocks walked us around town a bit and then to the Roti Queen's house for lunch.  Marci was having trouble with her cooking gas but Goldilocks helped her and so it was decided that we would come back at noon (30 mins later) for Roti's.

Roti Queen

Goldilocks then took us around to a place where we could sit out of the shade.  It ended up being the local bar/meeting house/gathering spot.  It was on the town center.  Tom bought a beer and then we walked about town a bit.

New paved road with drainage in one section

The houses appear to be in much better shape than other Caribbean islands we've been to.  Most houses had a yard and fence and some had a few bushes and trees/landscaping.  Additionally there were some fantastic concrete roads about.  Then we went back to the Roti Queens for lunch.  We had to wait.  Several people came and had take away.  They would respectfully wait for their food just outside her kitchen door which was slightly open.  Sometimes they visited with her through the door but they never went in or opened the door further.  Tom and I had the chicken roti.  Mike had a veggie roti.  Goldilocks came back and had a huge bowl of cows foot soup (bull soup) only it wasn't in a bowl but a Pyrex dish slightly larger than a meatloaf pan!  He said she makes the best and I believe it as he ate every drop.

Common facade in Antigua and Barbuda

During lunch, Mike inquired about local healthcare.  They have a hospital and three doctors.  Two from Cuba and one from the US- I think. They are provided a house and car while here and can bring their families.  They rotate through for a period of time and work 9-2 and plus call.  They also have 3 med students from Barbuda - I think, that have just finished up med school in Cuba and are now back doing their final internships.  They have nurses as well.

School

 After lunch, we walked around town a bit more.  Horses are really popular in Barbuda.  The local horses just wonder around town.  Donkeys too.  The thoroughbreds are kept in stables.  Every other Sunday there is horse racing and the entire island shows up to watch.  If you are into horses, I would think this would be a must for your visit.  FYI because of the horses and donkeys, they also have flies but they aren't too bad.  

Ad for Venezuela sponsored public works projects

The local fisheries dept has a lovely, modern, new facility to sort their fish.  I mean super fancy.  When we asked about it, Goldilocks said the Japanese had built it.  Hum?  He explained further that Antigua and Barbuda still have rights to limited whaling because of their heritage and so... the Japanese are trying to get in good with both for that reason.  A-ah!  This lead me to ask about the billboard we saw in town advertising three public works projects being built by the Venezuela government.  I asked what they wanted in return for doing these three projects.  Nothing is FREE, right?  Goldilocks said it started with Chavez trying to bring all the Caribbean nations together on their side and against the USA.  Hum?  Very interesting.  I wonder who is paying for the nice concrete roads we saw?  

Objection list to those running for office

Self explanatory

Pretty clear

We stopped a couple of different times to read the local postings.  One was about people running for office. One guy in particular was against certain people running and so had files a grievance saying so.  We were also able to peruse the local voter registry for the island of Barbuda as it was handing up outside the bar and post office.  It listed everyone, gave their voter reg number and told what they did for a living.  Another posting asked the people please get their horses off the cricket field!  So interesting.

Goldilock's skiff

We stopped in a local grocery store on the way back to the dock.  It was small but nice.  Mike bought a loaf of bread.  I thought the veggies that they had looked good - tomatoes, potatoes, onions, garlic, lettuce and I think carrots.  Goldilocks said they have two other grocery stores.

Pride and joy buoy

The town dock primarily has small fishing skiffs that are used to fish the lagoon, get lobster, and take tourist across the lagoon.  The entrance to the lagoon is only big enough for small skiffs.  However off to one side of the town docks, near some mangroves, there is a huge, red sea buoy.  I asked Goldilocks about this.  He said some of the locals found it floating close to shore.  It's a sea buoy from Nova Scotia- blown WAY off course.  They drug it back into the lagoon and now it's used during hurricane season to sound storm warnings.  I think it's primarily a big prize for the village....."look what we found!"   It was just funny to see if sitting there.  

Goldilocks and the Frigate Birds

Frigate Bird Colony on Barbuda

March 20th.  Meet Goldilocks.  He was our local guide to the Frigate bird colony on Barbuda.

Goldilocks himself

Mike from vs Right Turn joined us for the day.  It was nice having an extra hand to help us drag the dinghy up the beach.  The surf washes up pretty high on this beach so we needed to be sure it was up high enough to keep it from washing back out to sea.  Then we walked the 100 ft over the sand dunes to the lagoon.

Channel markers off Tom's shoulder and bow of the boat

Yes, we were that close to land going FAST

Goldilocks picked us up right at 10am and we took off across the lagoon.  Some places were very, very shallow.  Local knowledge is a must.  There was one shallow pass where there were flats (land) on each side....no less than 10ft off each side.  We (Tom, Mike and me) all braced a bit as our little skiff went screaming through that section at full speed - 15knots or so.

Goldilocks tossing dead branches to provoke an aerial fight

Bird taking the branch back to it's mate.....if it makes it....the other birds have other ideas

Once inside the mangroves, Goldilocks stopped to break off some dead mangrove branches.  He used these to show us how the Frigate birds fight to take branches and food away from each other.  He was very knowledgeable telling all about the birds.

So many birds

At one point he shut off the engine because it was too shallow and then he just used a long pole to take us along the edge of the mangroves.

chicks, nests and adults mixed everywhere

We were able to get quite close to the nesting birds.  Hundreds of birds filled the sky and hundreds more sat in the branches of the mangroves.  Maybe even thousands as this is one of the largest in the world.

Chick and then two non-attached males - puffed out and looking for love

We saw chicks, teenagers and adults - male and female.  The males with  the bright red pouches puffed out under their head have not yet found a mate for the season.  The male birds with deflated pouches have already been chosen by a female.  There is a joke or two in there about never mind.....  The males travel great distances.

The water near the frigate colony was full of thousands of jelly fish of all sizes.  Goldilocks said they were harmless and showed us by scooping one up.  Tom scooped several up.  They were not pretty like some jellyfish but really rather ugly and gross.

Jelly fish - thousands

small, weird, ugly jelly fish

It was all very interesting.  If you go, we would recommend Goldilocks.  You can reach him by calling on VHF radio to the Coco Point Hotel and telling them you want to book Goldilocks.  Or he has a cell - 722-54-74.  His VHF broke.

Barbuda

So inviting - "come play on the beach"

March 19th.  It's a tad windy today.  Tom started the day with coffee and then strainer cleaning.  Eewww. Next it was time to change the watermaker filter.  Eewwww.  It's amazing how fast it fills up with....eewww. But I guess that means it's working.  I decided to tackle a couple of galley cabinets.  Dinner the other night onboard sv Right Turn made me realize how icky and unorganized our cabinets had gotten as theirs are neat as a pin.  That is usually what happens.  There are things you know you need to do but somehow ignore or put off.  Then you look around an anchorage to see someone doing their teak or stainless or whatever.  Crap!  Now you are shamed into doing the same.  I guess it's not unlike yard work in the suburbs.  One person starts mowing or mulching and then everyone has to do it.  Bastards!  Ha!

What a view

We wrapped up chores around 12:30 and launched the dinghy to explore 11 mile beach.  We noticed sv Right Turn had not yet launched his dinghy so we popped by to offer a ride to the beach.  For some reason, we chose to go ashore near one end of 11 mile beach and start walking.  In hindsight, perhaps we should have gone ashore in the middle.  We walked nearing all of the beach but this then meant we had to walk all the way back.  We were very tired.  Ok, we didn't walk the WHOLE thing but a good chunk of it!

11 miles pink beach

The beach is supposedly pink.  At first I couldn't see it but as the waves came in and out I was finally able to see a pinkish tint at first in the tiny pink colored shells and then in the sand because it is made up of pulverized pink shells.  Being on the leeward side of the island, it was super clean with little to no trash, seaweed, washed ashore Garmins, or such.  However, we did find a dinghy kit washed up but left it in case someone lost it landing their dinghy on the beach and came back looking for it.  Later we decided it had been at sea for some time and now washed up on the beach here in Low Bay Barbuda.  If is there in the morning we will claim it.

There is some pink to it

While ashore looking at the lagoon on the other side of the dunes, we met local water taxi guy, Goldilocks.  We made inquire about touring the frigate bird colony and Codrington, the only town on Barbuda.  Goldilocks said he could take us tomorrow so we arranged to meet him on the beach at 10 am.

The above butterfly just flew in and boy were his wings tired - ha!  But seriously, he flew in from the water and landed on Tom's hand.  He stayed there as we walked along the beach.  Tom finally found a fence post and the little guy crawled from Tom's hand over to the post so he could continue his rest while we continued our walk down the beach.  I really do think he was exhausted.    

Antigua to Barbuda

11 Mile Beach

March 18th.  We pulled up the anchor and set sail for Barbuda at 8:30 am.  Currently it takes us about 1 1/2 hours to prep to sail.  We had dinner aboard sv Right Turn the night before, so none of that prep got done until morning thus the 8:30 departure.  But that is just fine as we had a lovely time at dinner.  Thanks Mike!

Low Bay looking south

Winds were 13-15 with gusts to 18.  We were beam to close haul at times on starboard tack. Seas were lumpy and uneven hitting on the beam to aft.

Low Bay looking north

Even though Barbuda is only 25 nautical miles north of Antigua, it is flat, flat, flat so you really don't see it until you are upon it.  There are many submerged reefs and coral heads so we were careful to read and re- read the cruising guides and Active Captain as well as consulting the chartplotters, Garmin mobile Bluechart and paper charts.

We decided to anchor on the west side of Barbuda in Low Bay.  This is home to the famous 11 mile long beach.  We dropped anchor at 15:45.

Anchored off the beach

It's a bit weird as the beach runs north to south and with easterly trades, you simply pull straight into the beach and anchor.  It's 16-13 feet nearly all the way into the beach so it seems like you are literally beaching your boat when anchoring.  We felt much like a powerboat pulling straight into the beach and chucking the anchor out.  Weird.  There are approximately 15 other yachts but with 11 miles, there is plenty of room.

Sunset our first night in Barbuda

*Kala, you are going to LOVE running on this beach.  I hope your parents on vs Terrapin take you here.