Friday, January 6, 2017

Off The Charts In Guyana - Itinerate Workers

Headed home for a few days
Guyana seems to have a large percentage of the workforce that is itinerate or station workers.  They travel from home to their place of employment – a resort, lodge, mining or logging camp, etc….to work for 22 days or so and then they go home for 7-10 days off.  Sometimes more days on and less off.  While at their place of employment, they generally live on-site in worker housing.  The bulk of the population of Guyana lives along the coast and to some extent the waterways.  People in tiny villages in the interior travel out to populated areas to work.  Miners and loggers travel into the bush to work.  As we experienced first-hand, travel into and out of the bush is not an easy thing (more in a separate blog about that).  The travel time/challenges cuts into the days off.  Seven days off, often means only 5 days at home because one day is spent traveling home and one traveling back to work.   I realize this is not uncommon in certain regions of the world as well as various cultures and socioeconomic levels, but it was new for us to see up close and personal. 

Off The Charts In Guyana - Refuling

Filler up?

I promised you a blog posting on refueling in Guyana.  We found it interesting enough during our visit there that it needs its own posting.
See the fuel tanks.....er....barrels?

The standard gas tank for the river pirogues is a 40'ish gallon plastic barrel.  Some of the river pirogues have two of these.  Others use 5 gallon jugs similar to those that hold cooking oil for restaurants – in fact, I believe some of these jugs actually started out as cooking oil containers that then got turned into fuel jugs.  More often than not, the fuel hose simply runs from the open fill hole in the top of the jug to the two stroke Yamaha outboard.  Sometimes refueling takes place after the trip.  Once we reached Rockstone, our river guide Paul refilled his 40 gallon barrel from a smaller jug.  Other times, the refueling takes place mid journey like on our trip from Bartika to Parika.  Felix slowed to idle and then switched the fuel hose from one barrel to another and we were off again zooming down the river.  I looked back again to see him use his toes to grip the hose and shove it further down into the barrel all while driving from his standing position out the top of the pirogue. 
Fuel barrel with hose straight to outboard

When we stopped for gas on the way to Marshall Falls I didn’t really notice the procedure.  The next day, we got a front row seat of the refueling process when we went to the Quarry Falls.
In Bartica, the fuel stations are about 20 ft above the river on stilts.  One of the boat guys climbed up the wooden structure to the fueling platform.  The driver handed up money via a bucket on a rope.  Then another bucket on a rope was lowered down.  This contained the oil for the fuel mix.  This was dumped in the barrel via a large funnel.  Then the long hose with the fuel was handed down.  Gravity let the fuel flow. 
Fuel dock in Bartica


Oil for fuel mix

Fuel / petrol

Pumps to dispense the fuel seem to be sparse.  More than once we saw gravity being used.  At the Itaballi ferry crossing, cars were being filled by putting the jerry jug on the roof of the car.  When captain Jim took his jerry jugs to the gas/petrol station on the main street in Bartica, the same thing happened, it was filled by gravity with a little help from a guy that sucked on the end of the hose to get it going.  Think about that……this is a standard method for refueling!
Gravity fill

On our driving trip into the bush and Iwaorama, we stopped at two fuel stations and they had gas pumps like we are used to in the USA.  However, on the trip back our driver Mark stopped on the side of the road to refuel from the 3 jerry jugs on the roof rack and he used a special hose with a shaker thing to get the fuel flowing.  Gravity took care of the rest.
Another gravity fill

Another fuel dock in Bartica - LOW tide - vessel to the left is a fuel transport boat

On one of our provision runs to Bartica, we also got gas for our outboard.  We dinghied around to one of the fueling stations.  It was low tide so we had to lift the outboard up and row in the last little bit.  There were many others fueling up so we had to wait, which was fine because it gave us a front row seat to the process and all the boats filling up with interesting cargo and characters.  One long river pirogue had at least twelve of the 40 gallon barrels they were filling up.  Then a dock hand waded out with a big bundle on his shoulder and put that sack in the front of the river pirogue.  When he passed by again with another bundle, I realized it was a whole leg of beef.  He heaved that one in the boat as well.  I asked the driver of the river pirogue where they were headed "Up river, into the interior to one of the mining camps."  Okay.  "Beef.  It's what's for dinner."      
"Would you like fries with your leg of beef?"

Local boaties filling up
A couple of other drivers of smaller river pirogues had beached their boats and waded over with 5 gallon veggie oil cans to fill them up.  In between filling each jug, they let the filling nossle and hose rest in the water.....in the water!  It was all very interesting to watch.  However we needed to get our jugs filled and get going.  Waiting in the queue wasn't working so Tom climbed up some rickety, broken stairs to fill our jerry jugs, handing the full ones back down to me.  Then we paddled back out to deep water (3 ft), lowered the outboard prop and headed back to the boat.  
Petrol hauling vessel

Another view of a petrol hauling vessel

There are river pirogues that are specifically fuel hauling vessels.
Truck for hauling petrol into the interior


Petrol truck on the ferry - note the extra fuel barrels 

This one just came out of the interior - note the fuel barrels

Hand cart with jerry jugs

Hauling fuel on land happened via a wide variety of vessels.   

Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Off The Charts In Guyana - Kayaking Up The Side Creek With Madame Butterfly

Heading up the side creek

Baganara Island Resort has numerous kayaks for guests to use.  The cruisers can use them as well - Thank you Baganara!  David and Randy learned from the bartender that there is a side creek with a "swimming hole" near by the resort.  Next thing you know, an excursion was planned.

Assistant manager Angel and bartender Dania accompanied our circus in order to show us the way.  It was a HOT day.  Very HOT!  "Who in the hell picked noon, the hottest part of the day for this excursion to kick off?"   However, it turns out that when the tide flows out, cool creek water fills up the creek so we had to go then to catch the last half of the falling tide.  Ah-ha.  The creek water is at least 20 degrees cooler than the Essequibo River water.  NICE!

We all paddled up a good distance and then got out of our kayaks to have a cool soak.  There wasn't really a "swimming hole" that I could see but it didn't matter.  Once again, the water color is tinted red from dead plants and minerals.
The Butterfly Whisperer
We were surrounded by rainforest.  Birds tweeted overhead and butterflies danced all around us.  We saw many of the big, iridescent blue morpho butterflies as well as many black/yellow and black/red butterflies.  But by far the most butterflies where some sort of yellow/green butterfly.  Catopisila, I think.  There were hundreds and hundreds of these.  When we piled back in our kayaks to paddle back out of the creek, these butterflies chose me as their leader.  Many fluttered around me, while others opted to ride along on my kayak, puddling in one area.  Our circus speculated what was attracting them.  I would like to think it was my universal personality that reaches across species but I suspect it was because my kayak was neon green.  I think they thought I was the mother ship.  After a little research, more than likely my kayak had trace minerals on it that attracted them.  Regardless, I became Madame Butterfly.  A group of at least 30 stayed with me nearly all the way back to the resort.
Madame Butterfly

This was the first of many trips up this side creek.  Sometimes we went up there to cool off.  Other times to explore and discover what we could see and hear.
Jim and Kathy up the creek WITH paddles - ha!