Sunday, February 14, 2016

Carnival 2016 Trinidad - J'ouvert


Group Rock D Boat J'ouvert costume
*J’ouvert or Jouvay is at the heart of Trinidad carnival, and is also celebrated in other Eastern Caribbean islands. The name J’ouvert originates from the French jour ouvert, meaning day break or morning, and signals the start of the bacchanalia that is Carnival.

Rock D Boat info sheet
J'ouvert is highly traditional and full of symbols culture and heritage. It is steeped in tradition and playing mud mas involves participants known as Jab Jabs. covering themselves – from head to toe – and others in paint, chocolate, mud, white powder or anything for that matter. It is J'ouvert custom that everybody gets involved and it’s common to see a newcomer being hugged by a muddy revelers.

Times and route for this group
This traditional part of Carnival starts at around 2 in the morning and finishing after sunrise. Calypso and soca music are the dominating sounds of J'ouvert in Trinidad the mass of revellers takes the street party winning and chipping their way to The Savannah in Port of Spain in the early hours of Lundi Gras, before the daytime carnival parades.

Before Sarah, Anna, Sarah and me

The roots of J'ouvert in Trinidad go back 200 years, with the arrival of French plantation owners. The French never colonized Trinidad, however elements of their culture remained. J’ouvert evolved from the Canboulay festivals in the 1800’s, which were night time celebrations where the landowners dressed up and imitated the negres jardins (garden slaves). Following emancipation the newly freed slaves took over canboulay, now imitating their former masters imitating them.
Making short on Anna - good for chipping

Canboulay revellers, who carried lighted cane torches, were seen as a potential risk by the authorities, and the tension mounted leading to the Canboulay riots. It was eventually banned, and then was re established as Jouvert.
sv Giraffe  - Anna Chipping
 We didn't go with a formal J'ouvert group.  Instead 11 of us (6 boats) went into Port of Spain just after midnight (to beat the traffic) and just roamed about.

David and Sarha sv Capt
There was already a mass of people down on Ariapita Ave.  It didn't take long for us to break into smaller groups. 

sv Cape - Bryn
Wayne, Jean Louis, Bryn, Anna and Peter went one way.

Crew of sv Cape
David, Sarah, Terry, Sarah, Tom and I went another way.  Soon David and Sarah went off yet another way.  It wasn't hard to do with some many people.  We spotted our first Big Truck (flatbed 18 wheeler with nothing but  speakers and a bigass generator to run them blasting Soca music).  The truck was followed by 1000+ people in that group, wearing t-shirts and hats of that group, covered in paint or mud or coco and dancing/chipping/wining through the streets.  Food, beverage, paint and tinkle truck followed.  Yes, that is what they are called "Tinkle Truck." 

After
We would watch them pass and then jump up following along chipping/dancing/wining as we went.  Then another Big Truck with another group would come by the other way and we would jump up with that group.  These trucks and groups slowly snaked their way through the streets in various directions.

sv Libertine Sarah and Terry, Tom and me - after waiting for our ride home
Many times the people in the groups would come up and dance/wine/grind with us and thus paint us.  We returned the favor.  No one was throwing paint. It's shared through dancing and gentle wipes on the arms, legs, face with the person's knowledge.  No paint fights, no scuffles.   

Me, Sarah, Anna, Peter and Wayne - After
It's basically a HUGE street party that moves through the streets until around 8am in the morning.  Then everyone disburses and tries to find rides home through gridlock traffic as other flood in for the Monday Mas Parade.

Jean Louis - After
By 9:30 am our paint had dried but our driver didn't take any chances.  He covered the seats of his car with plastic bags so we wouldn't get paint on the inside.

Ann (Sv Receta) part of the Coco Group
Tom wore ill-fitting swim trunks and an old K-State T-shirt which he simply threw away after.  I wore T-shirt that I had cut up for the occasion, old faded shorts and an old swim suit under both.  We arrived back in Chaguaramas and immediately jumped in the showers at Power Boats.  We scrubbed the worse off and then headed back to the boat for some sleep.  Later we took proper showers but even then the next day and even the following, we were still finding little areas of paint.     

Ann (sv Receta) and Debbie (sv Taka Trois) coco girls

It was an unique, interesting and fun event.  I am glad we took part.

AFTER -Front of my J'ouvert costume

AFTER - Back of my J'ouvert costume


*Historical information about J'ouvert came from this web site 
*Special thanks to Sarah on sv Cape for her pics and whoever took the pics of Ann and Debbie.






Carnival 2016 Trinidad - Panorama

Steel pan "trolly" used to move the pans
Monday February 1, 2016
If you will remember back previously we have done some pan yard liming - visiting various pan yards to hear them performing or having a friendly little competition with a few other orchestras.  We went pan yard liming again this week but what we found was very different.  Since it is the week leading up to the finals, everyone was in full practice mode.  In some cases we didn't even get to hear full songs but instead certain sections of a song practiced over and over and over.  They were also many more players - nearly the full orchestras practicing.  In the past, we only got to see a small fraction of these groups. They were also using the special built pan "trollies" that would be used in the final competition.  These were interesting to see in use.  It didn't seem to matter that these orchestras were in practice mode, many people still showed up to the pan yards to listen and see how their favorite orchestra was doing and how it would fare against others.  This seemed to be a very popular past time with older Trini's.  
It's quite a work out playing steel pan

Young, old, male, female, big, small, pan orchestras have all types of players.
12 pans - one player!

I know you are thinking "Hey, we heard a pan band when we were on holiday in Jamaica.  They were playing in the hotel bar."  I am sorry but no......that was not real pan.  Okay.....yes it was but not Trinidad pan, where pan was invented!  Here they are not bands but orchestras with sounds that resemble more of an orchestra vs a band.    
Sound amplifiers

One of the yards we went to was that of the Invaders.  The T-Shirt was just too kewl so I bought one for Tom.  Below is their Mission Statement if you will.  It says "We, the members of this incredible Steel Orchestra, take enormous pride in being a peace-loving cohort of fun-filled musicians who invade the minds, hearts and souls of our willing listeners and charm them, mesmerize them, intoxicate them and captivate them with our melodious weapons of mass entertainment."  

Actually, the pan orchestras of the past in many cases used to be violent gangs as well.  The groups often fought other orchestras.  Some of the names of these bands of men were "Hell's Gate", "Invaders", "Desperadoes".  However, eventually over time the violence gave way to the music.  The focus became beating the competition on the stage vs in the streets.  The history is rich and fascinating. 

Phase II Groove - practice

On Saturday February 6th 2016 we saw the National Panorama Finals - 10 medium and 10 large orchestras.  It started just after 7pm and the last orchestra finished at 2:15AM to packed stands.  Medium Pan has maximum of 90 players for finals and large has a maximum of 120.  Many of those are playing multiple pans.  That is a lot of pans!  The stadium is a purpose built pan stadium.  There are stands on both sides of the stage.  The area in between (the stage)  is probably the width of say 1000 ft total.  There are ramps on both ends so the pan "trollies" can be pulled/pushed up onto the stage.
Finals night - on the move toward "De Stage"

Making their way toward "De Stage"
"The Drag" is an area east of the pan stadium where the orchestras setup and stage. They do some last minute practicing as well.  Family and friends act as support staff for these big orchestras, helping to push the pan "trollies" through the crowds and up onto the pan stage.  We took the time to go outside the stadium and wonder through "the drag".  It was a whole other world out there with the pre-competetion buzz, party atmosphere of the helpers and many, many vendors with food and drink.
Getting set up
Each orchestra has a conductor as well as an arranger and tuner.  Many of the orchestras that night played pan tunes from the 80's and 90's.  However, the winning orchestra in the large competition - Desperadoes took a modern day SOCA tune "Different Me" and adapted it for pan.  Very interesting and a hit with the crowd.  They then use that song title as the theme.  In this case, they were all dressed various costumes.  My favorite medium orchestra Sound Specialist of Laventille played "The Ganges and The Nile."  Their costumes where African and Indian (India) - which I thought was perfect for Trinidad.  Each orchestra performs their piece for the judges.  It can be no longer than 8 mins.  I am not sure what all makes up the judging criteria but there are many aspects they look for.  


A large orchestra getting set up
Inside the stadium there was general admission and VVIP seating (couldn't figure out the extra V, maybe very, very important person?).  Once again we were shocked and pleased to see people bringing in small coolers.  And guess what?  No one got out of control.  No one got crazy.  People still bought food and drink from the vendors inside the stadium.  In the USA coolers are a no go.  Even unopened water bottles are a no go in the USA.  They force you to buy hyper inflated food and drinks at events in the USA.  Argh!    

Presenting their piece
Now least you go thinking pan is easy.  Think again.  The various pans are built and tuned to be the various parts of an orchestra and thus the use of the term orchestra verses band.  A tenor pan alone can produce 36 different notes.  36!

Soprano pan
But look closer.

Tenor pan
How about this for notes and sounds!

Tenor pan in detail
More details for you music heads!

So you can see that steel pan drums are not just pounding on an oil drum.  There is much, much, much more to it.  According to locals, they are actually starting to teach pan in school.  FYI - the national anthem of Trinidad and Tobago is played in pan.  It's beautiful.

The road to the finals is long.  Besides practicing, the regional competitions start in early January with many, many orchestras trying to make their way through to the finals.  We only saw the top ten in both medium and large categories.  Are you getting a sense of how big this is and how much Trini's love their pan!  The National Panorama Finals was broadcast live on TV with commentators if that gives you any sense of it.    

Below is the winning performance in the large orchestra category.  Desperados is from one of the toughest, roughest neighborhoods in Port of Spain - Laventille. The have a long history of winning with the most wins of any pan orchestra.  Their last win however was 2000 until this year. 

Below is the official video for the song "Different Me" 
Another kewl link to the Panorama songs here.

Carnival 2016 - Trinidad Style - The Terminology

Pic by Kurt

Brief history of Trinidad and Tobago Carnival here 

Mas – Masquerade, Carnival parade.

Mas camp - A Mas camp is a camp set up for masquerade costume designers, costume assemblers, carnival costume order takers to get together a month or two before a major carnival mardi gras event.
Carnival participants can visit the mas camp for complete information on carnival masquerade bands, view costumes in each section of a masquerade band, be fitted for a costume before purchase and other related activities that occur during a carnival.

Play Mas – To dress in Carnival costume, dance and parade in the streets.  "I play with Hart band."
 
Pic by Kurt

Band A group of Carnival masqueraders with costumes designed on a related theme. A band can have 4,000-7,000 people divided into 25 or more sections, each with it’s own theme and several music trucks. Each band has a huge King and Queen costume. Carnival Tuesday will see about 20 large bands go across the Savannah stage and parade in the streets in competition.

Ole mas- Ole mas is the abbreviation for ‘Old Masquerade’. It refers either to the ‘mud mas’ on J’ouvert morning, or the witty street satire of lampooning popular personalities or issues through placards and odd costumes.

Joo-vay-(Jouvay, Jour Ouvert, J’Ouvert) “Opening of Day” in French, Carnival Mas beginning before dawn on Carnival Monday wearing costumes of mud, old clothes (Ole Mas), devil costumes or satirical themes.  Modern day J'Ouvert involves bands covered in paint, mud, oil, ash or chocolate dancing through the streets behind music trucks.

Monday Mas – The Monday before Ash Wednesday costumed bands of masqueraders take to the streets after the J’ouvert revelry clears wearing all or part of their costume or even alternative attire known as Monday Wear. A warm up before Carnival Tuesday.

Pretty Mas – Today’s dominant form of masquerading emphasizing beautiful costumes with elaborate decorations. Many pretty mas costumes are now decorated bikini style garments.

Las Lap/Last Lap – Last minute street partying on Carnival Tuesday just before the official end of Carnival at midnight when Ash Wednesday begins. The very last of Carnival.

FĂȘte - a party, usually the parties around Carnival time are referred to as fĂȘtes. 

Chip - a walking shuffle step done to slower soca tunes.  Although we saw chipping to all Soca tunes.
Pic by Kurt

Wine/Winin - a seductive form of dance involving circular or semi-circular movement of the hips especially. Can be done alone, with a partner, or many partners.  You see all ages winin. 

Throw Waist - to dance, specifically to "wine"

Grinding, also known as juking, freak dancing or freaking (in the Caribbean, wining) is a type of close partner dance where two or more dancers rub or bump their bodies against each other, generally with a female dancer rubbing her buttocks against a male dancer's crotch area.  You see all ages grinding.

Jump Up – To participate in Carnival masquerade, especially pretty mas. The term also describes those who crash a band or play in street clothes. e.g. “I going and take a jump up with a band”

Storm - Similar to Jump Up -Those who crash a band or play in street clothes.
Pic by Kurt

Road - Parade route.  "I goin out on de road."

Road March – Kind of Trinidad’s song of the year, or best song of Carnival. As the costume bands cross the stage in the Queen’s Park Savannah, the song that most bands dance to is declared Road March for the year, and wins a large cash prize.

Soca – Soul-Calypso, the modern version of calypso music. Hardcore political satire, scandals, sexual double entendre and comedy, wrapped up in dance music with an African beat and heavy baseline.

Steel Pan, Steel band – Melodic percussion instruments made out of oil drums and invented in Trinidad in the 1930’s. One hundred piece steel orchestras compete playing classical, soca, pop during Carnival.

Pic by Kurt
The Big Truck - Speaker truck leading a band.  Large bands can have as many as four to six speaker trucks spaced out in their procession.  "I gonna jump up when de big truck pass."

Lime/Liming - a party or any get-together/to hang out, or (more recently) to date someone.

The Savannah - Queen's Park Savannah in Port of Spain and the center of carnival activities.

The Stage - Stage in The Savannah where bands (a group of Carnival masqueraders) pass to be judged.  It can also be a section of "De Road" where there is a judging stand.

Panorama– Held since 1963, Panorama is the premiere steelband competition of the carnival season.

Panyard– Where steel bands rehearse and have events.

For more definitions click here.  I got many of the above from this web site.

Special thanks to fellow cruisers Kurt Andersson sv Imagine for letting me use some of his pics.