Union Island Boat Boys

Boat Boy Romeo in Tobago Cays

We have found these guys to be curtious and polite.  First of all, we were not bombarded.  Only one guy approached us initially.  When we declined a mooring ball, he simply moved on.  When he saw us a little while later still trying to anchor, he came back around and checked with us again but not overly pushy.  Subsequent guys approached us to see if we needed/wanted various services.  Once we declined, they just moved on, no worries.  This was true of the fish guy, the trash guy and the BBQ to your boat guy.  Yes, you heard right....BBQ delivered to your boat.  Well of course Tom had to get the details on that offer!  For $120 EC Clem (boat named Fair Deal) will bring 2 BBQ dinners to your boat.  We found that a bit high priced for us.  However we engaged him more to find out what was happening locally and he gave the inside on local BBQ ashore for $20 EC each.  Thanks Clem.

All the boat boys we have observed here have colorful, big Carriacou built boats with nice sized outboards and plenty of fenders to avoid scuffing visiting boats when they tie up alongside.  Boat boys in other locations don't have as plentiful of fenders (like Grenada and Carriacou) and should perhaps up their fenderage.  Additionally, they all appear to be vey competent boat operators and most can maneuver a boat like a graceful dance!

Tiny village of Clifton

Some cruisers get so upset over boat boys.  There are anchorages that have reports of very aggressive boat boys that use questionable tactics but we have not found that to date.  We don't begrudge these guys at all.  It is their country/island and they are trying to make a simple living in a place where the opportunities are somewhat limited.  A walk ashore in Union island substantiated that.  In visiting with some locals, we learned that more Unionites live abroad than on the island.  I guess it's no different than a tiny town in rural anywhere.  The young kids leave for opportunities in bigger towns.  Education is another factor.  Any secondary education means taking the ferry each morning to St Vincent.  Post secondary means St Vincent or Grenada or further afield.  

Update - We moved over to Chatham Bay on the leeward side of Union Island.  A lovely, protected bay that doesn't get much traffic do to lack of services ashore.  Fine by us.  We entered on the tail of a squall.  Only one boat boy approached us.  He suggested we anchor closer along the north edge "less wind". We opted for the spot we were already headed for.  After we got our anchor set he approached again.  We said hello and engaged him to get the lowdown on the place.  Bushman wanted us to come to his restaurant on the beach for dinner.  Too expensive for us.  Tom inquired about lunch but we made no promises.  We told him we had big tuna to eat.  Yay!!!  He said he would check in with us in the morning for ice, trash and bread.  Tom inquired on the bread and made a deal to buy a loaf of whole wheat.  Later a second boat boy came along.  He was very laid back.  He knew Bushman had been by.  He said "I just want to let you know what I have offer."  Secky had similar items ashore plus a taxi for taking people to customs in Clifton and fresh fruits and veggies available.  We told him we stocked up in Clifton, purchasing from Jenny -" Oh, ok.  You bought from Jenny.  No problem, man."  It seems to help to mention other locals by name.  We never did get our wheat bread "It finished this morning.  No bread when I pass by." meaning the bakery was out of bread.  

Additional Update - We have found the same with the boat boys on Mayreau, Tobago Cays and Bequia.  Once we told them we didn't need anything, they left us alone and simply waved when they went by.  
Again, local people trying to make a living and we respect them for it. 

Carriacou to Union Island

Front row behind the reef

January 8th, 2015
20.4 nautical miles was our total trip.  Union is to windward of Carriacou.....so what does that mean dear readers?  Think hard.  You know this by now.....wind on the nose!  However, this passage we had time to sail (despite a later than planned departure - see Dirty Laundry) so we pointed the bow northwest, set the reefed sails for a close haul and took off at 6+ knots.  We sailed until we were nearly even with the top (north) of Union Island.  Then we tacked back to the southeast, towards the windward side of Carriacou.  When we were about even with Frigate Island (just south of Union) we were contemplating a tack so we could furl the main and start motoring directly into the wind and towards our anchorage at Clifton, however the helm didn't want to respond.  Hum?  Very odd.  I had a sneaking suspicion in the back of my mind but didn't say anything.  We regained control and I turned on the engine.  Because of my suspicion, I was very careful and immediately shut the engine back down as a huge, terrible noise came from under the boat.  Not good!  A broken up fishing float, two actually shot out behind sv Honey Ryder.  Oh shit!  We had sailed over a  couple of big fishing floats.  Not good!  Not good at all!  I was concerned that despite immediately shutting the engine back down we still may have wrapped some of the line around the prop and shaft.  Don't forget we only have 1/2 of a line cutter on the prop.  The other 1/2 is missing and we have yet to replace it.  *Getting the correct one has turned out to be a bit tougher than we thought.  Luckily, we were in open water and not near any of the numerous reefs in the area. Tom said "turn the engine on and see what happens."  I did and then carefully I put it into gear with my hand ready to take it back to neutral if needed.  It sounded ok and we slowly moved forward.  Whew!  I guess 1/2 of a line cutter saved us this time.  **Note to self, locate and get the line cutter ordered!!!

Close neighbor in windy conditions - big fun

We motored into the Clifton, Union Island anchorage and started our search for an anchoring spot.  We declined the boat boys moorings as we couldn't be certain of how the moorings are secured to the sea floor.  It's better to be on our own anchor.  We tried 3 different spots before settling in on anchor directly in front of an old 2 mast schooner.  I mean Right in front of it!  40 feet in front!  AND, this schooner has a 15 ft wooden bowsprit.  Yes, it seems we have become the people who anchor too close.  Crap!  I don't want to be those people.  Ugh!  But we were holding so we launched the dinghy and Tom went to check us in with immigration and customs.  I stayed aboard and on anchor watch.  I finally decided that we weren't moving and shut off the engine but left the key in the ignition just in case I needed to fire her up quickly.  Tom returned, we lowered our yellow quarantine flag and hoisted the St Vincent Grenadines flag.  We limed for a bit in the cockpit and watched as more boats came and went.  It was windy.  Then Tom dove on the anchor and found we were not set at all.  We raised the anchor and moved over to where a charter boat had just left.  Tom dove the anchor and we got a good set but we ended up 30 ft in front of a small sailboat.  Crap, crap, crap....we really are becoming the people who anchor too close.  Ugh!  But we were holding and the little sailboat seems to be used only during the day by a guy that is kite surfing the reef.  That does not excuse us anchoring too close but he wasn't there on his deck in his speedo to dissuade us - see Anchoring Stare.  Never the less, when the wind picked up around 9pm, I started anchor watch.  We held through the night so I guess we"ll stay put.

Tight anchorage

Update - We stayed 5 nights in Clifton during which many boats came and went and the wind blew and blew and blew.  We continued to hold fast.  A follow up anchor check showed our anchor continued to dig in more and more.  The anchorage was such that anchoring was tight at times.  We ended up with a catamaran 20 feet in front of us - ok 30 but it looked like 20 and another boat near our starboard bow.  It was good practice for us to experience these tight conditions but a little more space is our preference and generally what we have.  

The Grenadines

Grenadines (St Vincent)
St Vincent - 133sq miles 18 mi long x 11mi wide population est 97,638

Bequia - 7 sq miles, population est 4,861, 9 miles from SV
    pronounced Beckway

Mustique (Moustique) - 2sq miles, population est 552 private island, 17 miles from SV

Canouan - 3.2 sq miles, population est.1,165, 29 miles from SV
     pronounced Canawon

Mayreau - 1 sq miles population est 254, 35 miles from SV
     pronounced Mayroo or Myroo -both are used by locals

Tobago Cays - scattering of 5 atolls, no population 

Union - 3 sq miles, population est 1,935 including Palm and PSV, 36 miles from SV

Palm - resort island, see Union

Petit St Vincent (PSV) - private island, see Union

Grenadines (Grenada) included but not included in The Grenadines depending on who you talk to

Petite Martinique 

Carriacou
     pronounced Carriacoo

The Grenadines are basically a mini-archipelago made up of volcanic islands, coral reefs and sandy patches.  Despite the smallness of islands and difficulty in getting here via conventional travel, it is a very popular cruising destination for charter boats, full time cruisers, kite surfers, divers and snorkelers.  The rich and famous also jet in on private planes to uber posh boutique resorts - Mustique and such.

One of many, many reefs

On a personal level, anchoring behind a reef is somewhat new to us since we skipped the Bahamas on the way down.  We have done it a few times but not that much.  It's still astonishing that we can find shelter behind a tiny little reef that may or may not stick up a foot or two above the water.  Seriously? There are so many, many reefs here, it's amazing.  To me, it's weird to nose right up tight to the edge of a reef and drop the anchor.  While the sound of the surf tumbling on the reefs during the day is soothing - given the picture perfect- postcard setting, at night it's a tad....exciting to hear that same surf very near by in the dark.  

Yachts anchored behind a reef

Challenges

Reefs, reefs and more reefs.  Rocks awash as well.  

Water and fuel are limited and expensive - we have big tanks and a watermaker so this is not an issue

Limited repair services - we are good for now....fingers crossed

Provisioning is limited to small shops and an occasional fruit and veg vendor - they charge more

Restaurants charge more

Boat boys

Limited connectivity - cell and wifi - what's new

Rewards

Turquoise waters

Sandy beaches

Stunning sunrises and sunsets

Snorkeling and scuba diving

Post card perfect settings

Nice boat boys 

Endless boat and people watching possibilities 

Friendly locals

Simple
Peaceful

Turtles, dolphins, whales, fish