Bequia 2018 - Private Party At The Moon Holes

March 2018

We have always been fascinated by the Moon Holes of Bequia, especially Tom.  If you will remember, he even launched a dinghy expedition a few years back to get a closer look at them here-Tom's Great Moon Hole Expedition.  That is part of the challenge, geographically tough to get to and it is a private community, gated off with a security guard.

I suggested to ex-pat couple Nicolle and Nate that maybe they could arrange a walking tour because we would love to see them closer up.  "We would like to see them too" said sv Freedom (John and Roberta).  Nicolle said "Funny you should say that.  We were just invited to a private party this Saturday up at one of the Moon Hole houses.  Come with us."  "Really?  Are you sure?"   "Absolutely!"  Sweet!

So just like that, we were invited to a private party up at the Moon Holes.  Saturday arrived and we had screaming winds again - we saw a gust to 44 knots.  Ugh!  Normally, we would not get off the boat in winds like that but when would we ever get a chance to go to a private party at the Moon Holes again?  So we went.

We all stuffed in Nate and Nicolle's island car - six of us plus their daughter.....in a tiny island SUV held together by little more gray tape.  They dropped off their daughter at a friends houses and then we headed to the Moon Hole parking.  See, you can't drive into the Moon Holes.  You must walk in.  And the path is bumpy, uneven lava rock.  Kewl because it fits with the whole Moon Hole setting but think about that......if you live there, you would need to schlep your stuff in and out on an unlit path of  bumpy lava rock!

The security guard was not at the gate for some reason so we couldn't ask directions to the party house.  "Oh well.  I am sure we will find it." said Nicolle as she lead the way.  She has been up to the Moon Holes before so we followed along.

Soon we were upon the first of the Moon Holes house.  WOW!  I mean.......WOW!  Think Flintstones.  Houses built into the rock and hills.  Some have no doors or windows but are simply open.

The party location was not obvious.  We kept wandering along, taking in each house we passed.  We ventured clear to the end of the island, the last Moon Hole house.  It may or may not have been open.  We may or may not have taken the opportunity to explore it.  Wink, wink.  Amazing.  Absolutely Amazing.

Huge doors and windows trimmed in purple heart wood from Guyana - beautiful

We eventually ran into a woman cleaning one of the houses who pointed us back towards the party house.  It was one of the more developed Moon Hole homes with windows and doors that could be closed....although they were not.  It also had some color and decoration to it.  This two bedroom was nothing short of amazing.  There are two patio's - one facing north and one facing south, both views were stunning.  Our host (David, I think) is an ex-pat that comes to Bequia every year for 2 or 3 months.  He rents a place in Lower Bay.  However, one week each year during his stay in Bequia, he rents this Moon Hole house for a week and he has a big party to share this unique place with others.  The party goers were primarily other ex-pats we have been seeing at all the various islands events.  The only other cruisers were Sally and Jim from sv Chaos -aka the duo Mice in a Matchbox.  Jim brought his guitar and they sang as entertainment on the southern patio later in the afternoon.  Sadly, we didn't get any real pics of the party house.  We were too busy taking it all in.

Look at that view to the south

This Moon Hole house rents out with a chef and cleaning person.  Wise, given all the water is cistern water.  *Land people are usually not used to cistern water which is code for water rationing.

It was a good party.  Crazy trip home.

A day to remember!!

Bequia 2018 Screaming Winds, Dragging Boats, HUGE Swell

Big anchorage, why so close?  And look who it is......

February 2018

It has been really windy here in Bequia.  REALLY!  It can funnel through the gap in the hills and scream down into the anchorage.  And it keeps blowing.  We had two and a half weeks of non-stop wind.  Then a short break and then back at it again.  Below is some of the fun that has taken place in the anchorage lately.  Some of this during the week we had no yacht insurance.  Yep, never dull.

Dragging, tangled cats

sv Wind Cat broke her anchor chain and started dragging through the anchorage.  The owners are charter captains who were down in the Tobago Cayes on a charter.  A call went out on the VHF radio that sv Wind Cat was dragging.  She soon snagged another unoccupied cat and then they were both dragging.  Of course, cruisers to the rescue.  Tom went, Patrick (sv Illusions), Jason (sv Blue Blaze) a few others and then a few local boats arrived as well.  Tom had to actually get on sv Wind Cat along with another guy to help untangle it from the other cat.  The wind was so strong that the dinghies were not having any luck moving the two tangled boats.  A local boat took over and towed sv Wind Cat up and put her on a mooring.  The other cruisers were able to get the other cat's anchor to set again.  Whew!  Scary note - Tom nearly lost his head during this rescue.  sv Wind Cat has a wind generator on her forward, starboard bow AT NECK HEIGHT!  Let me state that again, the wind generator is at neck level!  This should never, ever be.  And on the starboard bow?  WTF!  It was spinning so fast in the wind, Tom could not see the blades at all.  He could hear it but with all the commotion, didn't really take note.  It was only at the last minute he saw it swivel in the wind and stopped short.  People - never, ever, EVER mount a wind generator at body height, period!!!!  Even if you get a wind generator for free, spend the money to mount it properly.

Putting sv Wind Cat on a mooring after she broke free of her anchor

Just before 4am this morning a strong squall came through with powerful winds.  It woke me up.  I got up to check the 62ft charter cat in front of us.  I was worried they would drag.  Sure enough, they are dragging down towards us.  We both went into scrambled mode.  I hit them with our new, powerful, LED spotlight (love this thing) trying to wake someone up.  Tom went for our airhorn - not working -damn!  Tom dives for the dinghy key to unlock it and race up there and bang on their hull.  This monstrosity keeps dragging down towards us. This 62ft by 30ft+ monster is going to hit us!  I didn't know what else to do.  I started screaming WAKE UP! GET UP! YOUR DRAGGING! over and over and over at the top of my lungs. I hear Tom fire up the dinghy. I hear people on another cruising boat near by.  I keep screaming.  OMG -They are going to hit us.  They are less that 1/2 boat length away from us.  I am shaking all over.  Finally, a few on board wake up. The captain comes up and acknowledges. I keep yelling GO,GO,GO.  Luckily, they swing off to the side so I can spot our anchor marker, now ahead of their port bow.  I hit my spot on that and keep it there, yelling at the captain to keep clear of it.  Slowly they motored forward.  It seemed like it took forever. They pulled anchor and slowly motored to the outer edge of the anchorage.  Maybe the Captain decided to go on to Tobago Cayes "early".  I don't know or care as long as they are gone from us. Tom motored back to our boat and I finally shut off the spotlight and made my way back to the cockpit, wet and shaking from the whole thing.  This morning I have many strong thoughts about charter boats, charter captains and 62 ft catamarans - most are not nice. I am going to hold those for now until I can get some more sleep. 

Charter cat - this one is only 50 ft (roll eyes)

Bitch wings - a common sight in most anchorages.  Bitch wings are when a cruiser gets up on deck and puts their hands on their hips and arms out to the side.  This is done when someone is anchoring too near or thinking about anchoring near or perceived to be anchoring too near.  "Did you see that stupid charterboat trying to anchor too near this afternoon?  I had to get out my bitch wings and run them off."  Or "Dude, I saw you out there just now with your bitch wings on.  Good for you."  Bitch wings are not reserved for a particular sex.  Anyone can put on their bitch wings and flash them around when needed.  Sometimes they work (like with charter boats that are self chartered or other cruisers) and sometimes they don't (like charter boat captains and the French).  

Too close, no need in such a big anchorage

I have found something better than Bitch Wings.  It is my handy-dandy, new, lightweight and powerful LED spotlight.  If I am worried, I hit that a few times starting at sundown, even just to spot on the boat in front of us so I know exactly where they are and how close.  If they don't like getting hit with a powerful spotlight a couple of times during the night, they should not have anchored so near and they can move in the morning.  I joked with friends that instead of bitch wings, I would stand on deck with a holster.  On one side would be my spotlight and on the other, my airhorn.  A cruising friend added "Don't forget your cutlass.  Put that in the belt of your holster for an added touch."  Good idea.  Ha!  Let's see who anchors near us now if I am up on deck with all that!  

Poor sv Crazy Love

Poor sv Crazy Love.  This is a chartboat out of St Vincent at it is being abused.  In the last four weeks we have seen the following.  1.)  Three English guys grounded her and then "bumped" a cruising cat while trying to un-ground themselves.  2.)  sv Crazy Love drug down slowly on our friend Kurt's (sv Imagine) boat.  French cruisers rescue Kurt's boat by hopping on board and putting his fenders out and kept damage from happening.  The clueless charters return to find their boat has moved.  Resulting inquiry uncovered the reason for the dragging....they put out 40ft of anchor scope in 12 -15ft of water.  WAY too little scope as Tom scolded them.  3.)  A week later, a family of three chartered sv Crazy Love. Dad is motoring FULL speed through the anchorage.  He is way too close to shore and headed straight for shallows just off our starboard side.  He is motoring so fast there is not time to yell over and warn him.  They come to an abrupt stop - hard grounding.  They get themselves off and then anchor too close to us and then too near the French boat to our port stern.  Sigh.....poor sv Crazy Love.  It has done nothing and yet charter guests are abusing the hell out of this poor boat.  I emailed the company to let them know.  I got a very nice and prompt email back thanking me for the information.

Big swell destroying the new part of the Belmont Walkway and Princess Margaret Beach

Big Swell was predicted.  Big swell arrived in Bequia big time!  There are basically four areas to anchor in Admiralty Bay;  Lower Bay, Princess Margaret Beach, up front on the south side and north side.  Lower Bay and Princess Margaret Beach can be rolly at times.  This is not uncommon.  What was predicted was big swell, all up and down the island chain. We all knew about it for days.  Many changed anchorages or even islands, looking for protection.  The problem was the direction of the swell.  It was supposed to come from the north, northwest, west and possibly even a little southwest.  None of these good for the normally well protect anchorages in the lee of these islands.  We had already moved up from Princess Margaret Beach weeks ago during the really strong winds.  We were now anchored off the Bequia Plantation Hotel - at the start of the up front south side.  We thought we would be ok.  The day the swell hit, I was up early for some reason.  At 6am I looked down at Lower Bay to see a series of HUGE swells breaking way far out from shore in the anchorage.  At least 100 yards out from the beach, basically in the back of the anchoring field.   I woke Tom up. "You have to come see the swells in Lower Bay."  Soon our awe turned to serious concern.  It was getting dangerous for the yachts down there and in Princess Margaret Beach.  They were all violently rolling in the swell.  Many began pulling up anchor and heading to the north side or up front to mooring balls.  As more and more swells broke, a mass exodus happened.  Most but not all.  A few stayed.  Then as the day went on, the swell shifted and came towards us.  We ended up facing west -so weird.  Which put us 90 degrees to our anchor set and much closer to the beach.  Luckily, this also put us head on into the swell.  Much safer and more comfortable to ride them out head on vs taking the waves on the side of the boat.  They were breaking just behind us and occasionally under us.  In hindsight, I would have preferred to be one more boat length out from shore.  We were a tad close at this angle.  The full weight of sv Honey Ryder pulling and tugging at the anchor snubber, chain and anchor.  But she held.  Everyone stayed on their boats at the ready for whatever.  Huge waves crashed all day on the Belmont Walkway, battering dinghy docks and sloshing into restaurants along the shoreline.  The new part of the walkway was washed way.  The pounding waves eroded must of Princess Margaret Beach.  It was an intense, nerve wracking day.  Then just as sunset was starting, the swell returned to Lower Bay with a vengeance.  The few boats that were left down there were once again in danger.  Two or three of them were knocked down rail to rail in the violent rolling.  They all but two moved.  Those somehow survived.  Tom and I decided to sleep in the cockpit just in case.  It finally calmed down enough that we went below at 1:30 am to bed.  What a day!   

Double fire hose for chafe guard on the anchor snubber.  This is after two months in Bequia.

It wasn't always terrible in the anchorage.  There were many nice days and calm mornings and still nights.  I just give you the above examples so you know what it can sometimes be like in an anchorage.  We had a wonderful time in Bequia.  We stayed two months!

Bequia 2018 - Thief In Paradise

January 2018

So one calm morning.......
An American woman and fellow cruiser we are acquainted with was accused of stealing a local's iPad in Bequia.  The woman's husband was on heavy pain medication for a back injury and lost in la-la-land.....code for - he was out of it.  Tom and cruiser George sprung to action to assist as things were going downhill fast.  We are thinking....."This has to be a mistake."

By the time the guys get her husband and get ashore, she has already been booked in Bequia and is being loaded, "handcuffed" onto the ferry to the mainland of St Vincent for formal charges.  She will either go directly to court if court is in session, or to the central jail for holding until court is in session.  Either way, not good.  The next ferry isn't until 13:00.  A local advises...."Don't wait for the next ferry.  You really NEED to be there ASAP.  Do you understand what I am saying to you?"  Things are really happening fast!  We are still thinking......."But this has to be a mistake or misunderstanding."  A cruising friend asks "But how well do you really know her?"  Hum?

A mad scramble ensues.  The guys secure a private go fast boat to take them and hubby across to St Vincent.  A local recognizes trouble and steps up with the name and number of a good lawyer in St Vincent.  I begin emailing a few select people who may have contacts and connections.  The US Embassy has been moved to Barbados but I get a name and discover this person may be on island if I can track him down.  The seriousness of this sinks in, an American woman is handcuffed in St Vincent awaiting trial and possibly jail.  The guys come back to the boats and grab wads of EC and US dollars, cell phones, ID's /passports, and rain jackets - this is an open boat they will be crossing in.  Hubby sits stunned in a pain med induced haze.  Tom and George are directing everything.  We are thinking....."Maybe this is just a big mistake, or a set up?  Things are happening SO fast?"  Hum?

The guys take off for St Vincent in "Rumors" a 16ft wooden, open boat with 75 hp outboard.  It is approximately 10 nautical miles across to St Vincent.  The channel is usually windy, choppy and wet and it was.  They pound across.  The boat driver Shawn not only gets them there but escorts them to the lawyers office.  "You will never find it on your own."  What a guy!  The lawyer sees them immediately.  After 5 mins of hearing the story as they know it, he asked "Where is she now?"  The guys respond "We don't know.  The Bequia Police said she would either be in jail awaiting trial or in court if it is in session."  He makes a couple of calls.  "She is in court.  Come on.  We must go now."  It is late morning.  Tom texts me updates.  I am over on George's boat with his wife Jan still working on embassy and department of state contacts we may need.  Jan asked "So, how well do you really know her?"  I don't even know her or his last name without looking at their boat card.  But that is true for most cruisers I "know."

Rumors in for serious repairs after the crossing with the guys - OMG!

The guys walk with the lawyer through the back alleys and side streets of Kingstown (no place a cruisers should ever be) to the courthouse.  The Serious Offenses Court - no place a cruisers should ever be....inside or out.  The woman is already in there awaiting trial.  Lawyer and hubby go in.  Tom, George and Shawn wait outside.  After an hour, they all come out.  She has plead guilty, been sentenced and paid a fine.  They all go to eat a late lunch.  We get word they are headed back.  Half way back a fierce squall hits, more wind, waves and rain.  Then Shawn's outboard starts acting up.  Typical island boat - no VHF, no lights, just the basics.  He did have life jackets however.  A fuel tank pickup was the issue.  The outboard would go and then not, then go and then not.  They crawled back in fits and starts.  Jan and I were thinking "So she did it?  Maybe they got confused at the cafe and each picked up an iPad not knowing.  Maybe that was it?"   The few people I had reached out to for possible connections for help were emailing back "So it's possible she did it?"  Hum?

Shawn dropped everyone off at their boats.  I went back to sv Honey Ryder.  We each had a stiff drink on our individual boats.  Tom said "She did it.  She admitted she took it.  So how well do we really know them?  I mean we really don't know them other than the few times we have been in group settings with them."  

Then began the long, drawn out process of analyzing every single aspect of this......episode, over and over, and over again.  I will spare you that.  It is worth noting that there was video proof of the theft.  The local, Andy, whose iPad was stolen was sick of theft and everyone blaming the locals, so he put in a video camera.  He is a local community leader, running the youth sailing program among other community charities, events and such.  The island is small.  Word travels fast.  Everyone knew what happened.  Everyone knew George and Tom were involved.  Guilt by association?  We wondered.  They asked them in the following days "What happen with the white woman who stole the iPad?  She get off?  She didn't go to jail did she?"  That is when we learned that standard sentencing for this type of crime is two months jail time.  Think about that!  TWO months in a foreign jail.  Some cruisers have commented "That seems harsh."  Really?  Would they think it was harsh if it was their iPad that got stolen.  I doubt it.  She plead guilty with the lawyers help!  Paid a fine of $400 EC or appox $150US and NO jail time.  No deportation.  Lawyer fee was $600US.

This brings up the whole locals vs cruisers.  In the days following there seemed to be an under current of them vs us.  Andy was right.  More often than not, when things go missing/stolen, the blame is immediately assigned to "locals" stealing.  Tom and I have come to believe that much of the theft that happens to cruisers is in fact committed by cruisers but blamed on locals.  Solar panels, battery chargers, generators, sailing gear, etc....this is cruiser on cruiser theft.  Dinghy accessories - cruisers.  Dinghy outboards - this one is split.  It is probably more locals but I personally think some of it is cruisers.  It was literally announced last spring and again this year on the Martinique morning net "Boats are headed back across the Atlantic to Europe.  Lock everything up unless you want to lose it as some will steal before they head east."   A cruising boat was intercepted last year while returning to Europe loaded with outboard engines stolen from the Caribbean.  Our custom made bamboo dinghy outboard handle that was stolen last year.....a cruiser most certainly took that.  Just a month ago, Turbulence Sails in Grenada posted video pictures of a cruiser who broke into their shop overnight and spent 3 hours trying to put together a roller furler to steal!  He was not able to do it in the time before dawn and left.  He was not caught and is still out here among us.  Friends told us just this week of other cruising friends that were rafted up along side a French cruising boat in Europe.  Both boats had their fenders tied in between.  When the French boat left, the people discovered that their nice fenders that been taken and the old, worn out ones from the French boat were left behind.  The French boat had simply retied the lines of the fenders switching them!

I had an in depth discussion via email with the head of the Caribbean Safety and Security Net. This group keeps track of incidents of crime involving cruisers.  It is invaluable information that keeps us all informed and let's us make wise decisions about our safety and where we chose to go. * If you are a cruiser and you are not using this - start NOW, today!!  To date, this site has been reporting on thefts and crimes that happen TO cruisers.  I suggested to CSSN that this recent iPad theft should be reported as well.  It was a crime involving a cruiser.  It just happened to be a crime BY a cruiser.  In the end, it was decided that it did not fit the criteria for reporting as they do not report on crimes that happen ashore, only on yachts or dinghy docks.  Interesting to think about however.

As for the woman and her husband. They waited a day or so and then sailed out of the anchorage.  Supposedly south, which is still part of St Vincent and the Grenadines.  You can be sure that all the locals down there knew about the theft.  Everyone is related.  It made the Bequia TV news and beyond.  The cruising community is a small and connected community as well.  Word spread fast.  Shock, disappointment, anger and disgust was the general feelings.  I have mentioned before how fast and hard we make friends in the cruising lifestyle.  We come together in unusual type settings.  We help each other out to extraordinary ends at times and then we sail apart.  There is an inherent trust built into this lifestyle.  But how well do we really know our cruising friends and fellow cruisers?  This event had much of the cruising community questioning these things.  Personally, in regard to what we know about our fellow cruisers - we know very few last names, or what they did for a living, or where specifically in England, Germany, Wales, New York, Michigan, etc. they are from.

But after much rehashing and discussion, ultimately Tom summed it up best.  "Knowing what I know now, that she did it, would I do it all again?  Would I put myself at risk and go to the extent I did?  Yes."

       

Rum Shack Tours

Sabrina's Bar

January - February - March 2018

Nicolle (our hostess), Patrick, Luci (sv Illusions) and Tom

There is a cute, young ex-pat couple raising their daughter in Bequia and trying to make a living so they can stay year round.  Nicolle and Nate have come up with some unique ways to generate some income, help the community while having fun.

Nate (our host)

They are doing Rum Shop Tours.  They organize and set up transportation as well as host.

Toko's Bar

Each Rum Shop Tour focuses on a certain area of Bequia.  NOT the touristy waterfront that we all know or even the rum shops in town but areas many cruisers never travel to.

George, Sabrina and Tom - name of the bar?  Bar.

BTW - Rum Shop Tours are really just a great way to see and learn about other parts of Bequia, as well as meet and interact with locals, other cruisers and ex-pats.  You are not required to drink rum.  In fact you don't have to drink at all.  We drank beer.  Others drank rum and or Coke or water.  Whatever.

Some were literally shacks

The first Rum Shop Tour  - we went on was to the south side of Bequia, near the airport.  We met in town at the Rendezvous Bar.  We piled into a school bus that actually was still picking up and dropping off a few students.  Nicolle passed around a bottle of homemade Sorrel rum, which was really yummy to get us all in the mood.  The bus was playing some jammin' Caribbean tunes.  It turned out to be Christian Rock.  Not the sort of music I thought we would have on a Rum Shop Tour but hey, whatever.  "What would Jesus listen to on the way to the rum shop?"  WWJLRS t-shirts?  I know, needs work.  We had to hike up a very steep hill to go to the first Rum Shop because the bus could not make it up there. We had a drink there and took in the fabulous view.  Then we walked to the other Rum Shops.

Kurt (sv Imagine) and Patrick (sv Illusions) checking the bingo cards

The highlight was Toko's Bar.  We liked it so much, we went back several weeks later.  We also learned on this tour that there is a lobster processing plant (gift of the Japanese Government - roll eyes).  We went back a couple of weeks later to buy lobster there and got a tour by the plant manager.  The Rum Shop Tour ended back in town.  We hung out a little longer with Nicolle and Nate at the weekly street party. Fun time.

George (sv Wild Cat), Patrick (sv llusions) and Nicolle (hostess)

Rum Shop Tour #2 for us - By now, the Rum Shop Tour was becoming famous and demand was growing among the cruisers.  The next Rum Shop Tour was a walking tour of Hamilton.  But again, not the front street places we all know, but the back alley, behind somone's house Rum Shops.  Many of these Rum Shops are really just shacks.  Seriously nothing more than a shack.

George at Miranda's - who knew?

One of the stops was Miranda's Laundry.  Nearly all the cruisers use Miranda's Laundry for laundry service but NO ONE knew she also has a bar on site.  Her brother runs the bar and plays the music.  It is a tiny place in front of her house and next to the laundry but it works.  It was so fun, we went back again a couple of weeks later on a rainy Friday night.  Oh, and on this Rum Shop Tour, we had homemade bingo cards to find Bequia things - A mango tree, a goat, Eli, Rachel, a washing machine, etc.....a fun way to "discover" more about Bequia.

The gang with Eli - he gave us all loofah's and bundles of fresh herbs

The third Rum Shop Tour  -was in Lower Bay.  We again met in town and bused down there.  Once again, these were small, lesser known places (especially to us cruisers).  One, Maria's, we planned to go back to for lunch at a later date but sadly never made it there.

One of the Lower Bay Rum Shops

The last Rum Shop we stopped at was run by a beautiful local woman and her mother.  In the off season she is a backup singer for two different bands and travels the world.  I noticed her signing to a local sitting at the bar.  It turns out that is her cousin who is deaf.  She learned sign language as a child so her cousin would have someone to talk to. She told us a funny story of seeing a group signing on the subway in Munich while on tour. They didn't think anyone knew sign language but them.  She surprised them all by jumping in to sign them directions and remind them that they are in public and you never know who can see what they are saying.  We all laughed.  Such an interesting woman.

Run by the backup singer

Backup singer, Nate and her cousin

Some of us carried on to Keegan's in Lower Bay for the Full Moon party. We had dinner and then went down on the beach to the bonfire.  It was all good until the wind picked up and tiny embers started blowing around and in some cases, on us.  Poor, uber polite and proper English cruiser Mike didn't know what to do or say when an ember landed on my chest.  "Um....oh...Sabrina.....um, yes, right.....you have a amber, um... just there.....on your....well.....oh my, um....just there." as he started to brush it off but then hesitated, then tried again, then hesitated....all the while as it sat burning on my boob without my knowledge.  You probably had to be there for it but it was SO funny.  Luckily it was tiny so no injury or damage.

Bennett and Susan (sv Praqutic) Cindy and Rob (sv Aaventura)

"It is ok for you to touch another woman's boob's if she's on fire - Sandy explains to Mike

As I said above, the Rum Shop Tours are not really about rum but about seeing new places and meeting new and interesting people.  Nicolle and Nate are fabulous hosts herding us all around and sharing their adopted island in this unique way.  $20 EC each is their fee.  More than fair.  As word spread, more and more cruisers and land people visiting on holiday joined in.  Right after we left, there was another Rum Shop Tour.  Supposedly 58 people went - two buses.  WOW!  They had one yesterday as well. 

My favorite chair at Toko's

Bequia 2018 - Education

January 2018

I have told you before that cruising is not just beautiful sunsets and drinks with little umbrellas.  We learn.  In fact, we are in a constant state of learning.  In Bequia, our learning was in the form of talks/lectures.

Jason's Reef Fish talk - pic by George

The Reef Fish Talk - 
Cruiser Jason is a commercial diver and a marine biologist.  Last year when we were in Tobago, he gave us and sv Inishnee his reef fish talk.  It was really interesting.  The next day we went diving with them and saw so many things we had never seen before.  Little, tiny things that were there all the time but we just didn't know to look.  Well, I happened to mention the fish talk in a group setting with other cruisers.  "That sounds so interesting.  I would love to hear the fish talk."  "Yeah, me too."  "Oh yes.  We would like to hear it too."  "Please....Jason will you do your reef fish talk for those of us who haven't heard it?"  And just like that, Jason was on the hook (bahaha) to do his fish talk.  Jan and George volunteered their big cat  sv Wild Cat to host the fish talk.  Jason did a great job.  He updated the pics and the talk.  He only talked about two of the fish from the year before.  The rest were new.  So kewl.  And he doesn't just talk about obvious reef fish like the Parrot fish or Blue Tangs.  No, he talks about kewl little fish that change sex or where the male carries the eggs in his mouth and stuff like that.  It was very interesting and everyone learned a lot.

sv Tegan Joe and Janet - pic by George

Watching The Superbowl Around The World - 
Joe and Janet on sv Tegan have been out cruising now for.....23 yrs I think.  Absolutely amazing.  We met them first in Trinidad.  But we have gotten to know them a little more here in Bequia.  Joe is a big football fan - American style.  He never misses a Superbowl.  He told us he has seen the Superbowl in some really unusual places, at unusual times (like 2am or 6am because it is live) and in unusual circumstances (like paying for diesel for the generator to run the lights and TV at a beach shack bar on some tiny south Pacific island.)  I really wanted to know more about all of their travels and adventures so I suggested they need to write their story with that slant - Watching Superbowls Around the World.  They laughed.  Then I asked "Would you do a talk along those lines?  We would really like to hear your stories."  Other cruisers with us jumped in as well.  Everyone wanted to hear their adventures.  Joe and Janet agreed.  They took four days to pull together their talk.  They said they had a fun time reliving memories as they organized it all.   How do you condense 23 yrs of cruising and exploration around the planet into a simple hour + long talk?!  You don't.  But they did it.  Jan and George on sv Wild Cat again agreed to host.  It was so interesting.  The best advice they ever got was early on as they sailed south out of Canada along the west coast of the USA -a cruising couple told them "Don't hurry through the Pacific.  Take your time and explore."  So they did just that.  Boy did they ever.  They took 9 years in the Pacific, 8 years in Indonesia and 2 years in South Africa.  They have only been in the Caribbean for 2 years and still have not seen it all!  (Neither have we!)  They also adjusted their sails in terms of plans.  For example, when they were in Ecuador, they had planned to go south to Peru.  However, there was political upheaval, so they changed their plans and headed to Easter Island.  Joe told of the various far away places and crazy settings he has watched Superbowls and Janet filled us in on other amazing adventures.  Their journey is truly inspiring and I thank them for sharing a small bit with us.  I hope they do go on to write a book because I know it would be a great read. 

One of the things we like about the cruising life is the fact that we are constantly learning.  Sometimes it is through experiences.  Other times, it is through other people.  It is not often that our learning takes on a more traditional tone like a lecture or talk but when it does, that type of learning is good as well.

Jan and George - pic by George

Big thanks to Jan and George (sv Wild Cat) for hosting the talks and all the other fun times on your boat.

Bequia 2018 - More Music

January 2018

In the following weeks after the Bequia Music Fest there were many opportunities to enjoy and even join in.

Mustique Music Fest comes to Bequia

The private island of Mustique also has some sort of Music Fest going on during, or before, or after the Bequia Music Fest.  It is unclear exactly when.  We have never been to Mustique.  We planned to go but still couldn't get a clear answer on the when, who, what time, etc....Then we heard the bar where this nightly music fest (sounded more like a nightly jam....which is ok) was not even officially open yet.  Hum?  Then it was announced that all the musicians from the Mustique Music Fest would come over to Bequia and play a show at the Bequia Plantation Hotel.  A free show.  PERFECT!  It was great.  So many talented musicians all jamming together.

Mice in a Matchbox - Sally and Jim

Mice in Matchbox is comprised of an English cruising couple - Jim and Sally.  He plays electric guitar and sings.  She sings as well and plays the stomp box.  You might be saying "What is a stomp box?"  I know I was.  It is a simple wooden box that a musician stands on during the performance and stomps their feet to create percussion.  Sally's stomp box is probably 24"x18" and plugs into their amp.  She said it was an old wooden tea cart (tea platter in Merican).  This is the first time I had ever seen one.  I thought it was a tad odd when we showed up to see them.....Sally was dressed in a rainbow tie-dyed frock with Capri's and.....hiking boots!  Boots of any kind stand out down here in the Caribbean where flip-flops are the standard of footwear.

The Stomp Box

Their set up

Then they started to play and she started to stomp and I understood.  And when I say stomp, she wasn't going to town like some crazy Irish dancer or a hill-billy throw down, but she did step purposely and constantly on her stomp box.  Yeah....that is it......purposely.  I had hoped to try it after one of their shows because I wanted to see what it would take to make the sound.  I also wondered if you had to have something like hiking boots or if Keens would work.  Doesn't matter.  I want one.  I want a stomp box!!  So simple and yet, brilliant.

Mice in a Matchbox fan club at Laura's

Speaking of which, Mice in a Matchbox are brilliant in the songs and approach.  They play sea shanties, English/Irish,Wales songs old and new.  They are simple and yet put together in their performances.  We saw them perform several times in a couple of different settings and they were able to adjust and modify to the surroundings, mood and crowd.  Oh, and the name.....They are two shorter people in stature and they live and sail on a Contessa 32 - a 32ft sailboat.  So they think of themselves as two little mice in a matchbox.  Interesting people.

See her Stomp Box?

Local music - Bequia has local music nearly every night of the week.  Papa's, Coco's, Fig Tree, Laura's, Mac Pizza, Bequia Plantation Hotel, Keegan's, the weekly Rendezvous street party.  There are tons of chances to catch live music in Bequia.
NOTE - Most of the places in Bequia are pretty small.  When a "gang" of cruisers (6 or more) show up to enjoy and support, it really makes a difference.  Mice in a Matchbox experienced this first hand.  We all showed up to see them playing for the first time at Laura's.  There were approximately 10 of us cruisers plus the normal crowd.  We clapped, sang and danced along.  And we drank at the bar.  Very important point.  A few ate dinner there as well.  After, we asked the Mice "When do you play again?"  They said in a week and a half at Mac's.  However, the next morning they announced on the morning VHF net that they would be playing again next Monday at Laura's and each Monday after that.  I think our crowd showing up made a big difference.  So.....go out and support live music!!!

Local playing the a Sailor's Bar jam

Jams - The Fig Tree has an open mic night.  This can be music or poetry.  We went one night.  Tom played with Captain Chris off sv Troubadour.  Janet off sv Tegan came and sang.  George and Jan got up and did his song "Send Money By Morning." set to the tune of Amarillo By Morning.  We had a big crowd of cruisers show up and play along to it all with our percussion instruments.  Coco's has a weekly jam, Green Boley had a very successful jam right after we left Bequia.  The Sailor Bar had a really fun jam that we attended. 

Locals at the Sailor's Bar jam

Drumming - Besides jams, Tom had a chance to do some straight up drumming.  Jeff off sv UJamn plays drums.  He has a djembe on their boat.  We went there once for a drumming session and then they came to our boat.  They also had a chance to jam with others at the Sailor Bar jam.  It was Jeff's first cruisers jam in the Caribbean.  He was so excited.

Sailor's bar jam