Bequia 2018 - Education

January 2018

I have told you before that cruising is not just beautiful sunsets and drinks with little umbrellas.  We learn.  In fact, we are in a constant state of learning.  In Bequia, our learning was in the form of talks/lectures.

Jason's Reef Fish talk - pic by George

The Reef Fish Talk - 
Cruiser Jason is a commercial diver and a marine biologist.  Last year when we were in Tobago, he gave us and sv Inishnee his reef fish talk.  It was really interesting.  The next day we went diving with them and saw so many things we had never seen before.  Little, tiny things that were there all the time but we just didn't know to look.  Well, I happened to mention the fish talk in a group setting with other cruisers.  "That sounds so interesting.  I would love to hear the fish talk."  "Yeah, me too."  "Oh yes.  We would like to hear it too."  "Please....Jason will you do your reef fish talk for those of us who haven't heard it?"  And just like that, Jason was on the hook (bahaha) to do his fish talk.  Jan and George volunteered their big cat  sv Wild Cat to host the fish talk.  Jason did a great job.  He updated the pics and the talk.  He only talked about two of the fish from the year before.  The rest were new.  So kewl.  And he doesn't just talk about obvious reef fish like the Parrot fish or Blue Tangs.  No, he talks about kewl little fish that change sex or where the male carries the eggs in his mouth and stuff like that.  It was very interesting and everyone learned a lot.

sv Tegan Joe and Janet - pic by George

Watching The Superbowl Around The World - 
Joe and Janet on sv Tegan have been out cruising now for.....23 yrs I think.  Absolutely amazing.  We met them first in Trinidad.  But we have gotten to know them a little more here in Bequia.  Joe is a big football fan - American style.  He never misses a Superbowl.  He told us he has seen the Superbowl in some really unusual places, at unusual times (like 2am or 6am because it is live) and in unusual circumstances (like paying for diesel for the generator to run the lights and TV at a beach shack bar on some tiny south Pacific island.)  I really wanted to know more about all of their travels and adventures so I suggested they need to write their story with that slant - Watching Superbowls Around the World.  They laughed.  Then I asked "Would you do a talk along those lines?  We would really like to hear your stories."  Other cruisers with us jumped in as well.  Everyone wanted to hear their adventures.  Joe and Janet agreed.  They took four days to pull together their talk.  They said they had a fun time reliving memories as they organized it all.   How do you condense 23 yrs of cruising and exploration around the planet into a simple hour + long talk?!  You don't.  But they did it.  Jan and George on sv Wild Cat again agreed to host.  It was so interesting.  The best advice they ever got was early on as they sailed south out of Canada along the west coast of the USA -a cruising couple told them "Don't hurry through the Pacific.  Take your time and explore."  So they did just that.  Boy did they ever.  They took 9 years in the Pacific, 8 years in Indonesia and 2 years in South Africa.  They have only been in the Caribbean for 2 years and still have not seen it all!  (Neither have we!)  They also adjusted their sails in terms of plans.  For example, when they were in Ecuador, they had planned to go south to Peru.  However, there was political upheaval, so they changed their plans and headed to Easter Island.  Joe told of the various far away places and crazy settings he has watched Superbowls and Janet filled us in on other amazing adventures.  Their journey is truly inspiring and I thank them for sharing a small bit with us.  I hope they do go on to write a book because I know it would be a great read. 

One of the things we like about the cruising life is the fact that we are constantly learning.  Sometimes it is through experiences.  Other times, it is through other people.  It is not often that our learning takes on a more traditional tone like a lecture or talk but when it does, that type of learning is good as well.

Jan and George - pic by George

Big thanks to Jan and George (sv Wild Cat) for hosting the talks and all the other fun times on your boat.

Grenada 2018 - Nature's Lawnmower

January 2018

The first stop on the shopping bus is the bank so everyone can hit the ATM.  This bank has lovely manicured grounds.

No doubt their lawn mowing machine plays a big part in keep things looking good.

Interesting, because we have seen first hand the damage goats can do to an island if left unchecked.  However, this goat seemed well trained.  He/she munched along for a bit and then moved on, as if carefully trimming here and there.

It was funny to see. 

Happy Indigenous People Day

Oct 9^th 2017

Happy Indigenous People Day!  Yes, I am one of those.  I couldn’t be happier that the second Monday of October is now being celebrated as Indigenous People Day.  I have long thought Christopher Columbus was a hack.  Even back in grade school I couldn’t understand how Columbus “discovered” what is now the USA when there were people here.  Huh?  “But Miss Salter, that doesn’t make sense.”  “Be quiet Sabrina.  This is history.”  

Too harsh?

I have since learned (through various books) that while he sailed across the ocean blue but he didn’t not discover ANYTHING.  He had MAPS!  Yep, ole Chris followed maps to the Caribbean and then up to America.  We followed maps when we drove down through the southern states in 2013, does that mean Tom and I “discovered” Dixie?  I think not.

Bahahaha

So through the years, while I was glad to have the official day off, I always thought it was ridiculous and actually came to begrudge Columbus Day.  It just seems like a false/fake day.  And how in the hell did it become a national holiday (in 1937 BTW).  It also cracks me up that Italians grabbed on to it and celebrated also, since Columbus sailed under the Spanish flag!  I know, they chose it to celebrate their Italian heritage.  I just find that odd.  Of course it is not celebrated here in the Caribbean – that would be a slap in the face. 

Hum????

I didn't even remember it Columbus Day today until I saw there was an announcement that Kansas City Missouri City Council declared October 9th 2017 as Indigenous People Day.  I thought, yay, a real news story and traction for this.  I am not sure how far this shift in thinking has gone.  (I hate to call it a movement because people seem to bristle at the term.)  Apparently there are now over 50 major cities that celebrate Indigenous People Day vs Columbus Day.  When I did follow up research, there were several stories.  I don’t know what is taught in school these days.  I hope it is Indigenous People Day, perhaps along with some information about a crazy Italian guy who got a bunch of money from the Queen of Spain (because his own refused to give him $) and went adventuring across the sea, meeting new people and exploring - NOT discovering, new to him lands.  This allows proper celebration and still fosters the imagination of the dreamers and would be adventurers in the classroom. 

*Special Note – While reading this to Tom and discussing I asked “Seriously, how did Columbus Day become a holiday in the USA?”  Tom suggested “We are just as nuts for holidays.  Nearly as much as the Trini’s”  HA!  Trini’s LOVE their holidays and they have a ton of them.  Hee hee.  BTW - This Friday October 13th is "First People's Day" - a one off holiday here.    

**  I understand that Chrissy perhaps did discovered some additional details - coves, anchorages and such.....maybe......although I still think the locals would best know all the ends and out of their island(s)! 

Norman's 4th Annual DDI Lime

China box

Saturday Sept 23rd
Definitions:
DDI Lime - Down island Lime - I don't know why there are two DD's but there are.
Down Island - Chachacare is the last of 5 little islands that make up The Bocas Islands that lay west of Trinidad.  It was the location of a leper colony that only just closed in 1984.  BTW - according to Wikipedia, President Trump visited it in 1999 during the the Miss Universe contest and contemplated building a casino and resort (of course) but didn't.  And yes, there are a ton of jokes ripe for the picking in the previous sentences - Trump and leper colony being the key words here!!!  You're welcome.  Have at it!
Lime -  (v) hanging out/socialising in an informal relaxing environment, especially with friends, for example at a party or on the beach., or even just on the porch or such.

Norman is a local Trini that is a fixture and apparently also a quiet mover and shaker at the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association.  Every year for the past 3 years he has thrown a DDI Lime.  We had the opportunity to buy tickets to this event.  I say tickets because this is a tad beyond your normal relaxed lime.  It is a pig roast with all the fixins - 1/2 pig in a China Box, massive amounts of BBQ chicken hot off the grill,  traditional starchy Trini sides of potato salad, macaroni bake and rice(?)  Trini's LOVE their starches!!!  Unlimited food AND drinks!

Willie and Sabrina on the ride out

We caught a ride in style on mv Shadowfax (thank you Rico and Jackson) along with fellow cruisers.   We arrived early and got anchored.  Typical of most Trini events - the cruisers were WAY early.  The party was just being set up ashore.  No matter, it wasn't long before we were bobbing in the clear waters of Chachacare.

More boats arrived and soon it was a full blown lime.  The sky was somewhat cloudy with a few light showers.  That was fine with Tom and me because after a summer at 38 degrees of latitude, our tender skin was not yet used to 10 degrees of Sun that is here in Trinidad.

Tom on the ride out

More boats arrived.  We sent scouts ashore to recon the progress.  "Soon" it was reports.  More limin.  Finally, we dinghied ashore.  The chicken was ready, the DJ had the tunes cranked and the drinks were flowing.  We started limin with all the locals.  So many interesting people.  More drinks and chatting.  Then a few proper toasts to Norman.  Then the smoked pork was done.  OMG - it was fantastic!!!  A chef chopped it into small inch bits and topped it with chopped green onions and a light sprinkle of soy sauce.  As fast as he dumped it into a large pan, we all scooped it up by fingers, hands and cups.  I looked over to see a group of locals limin in the water up to their waists - a drink in one hand and a cup of pork to nibble on in the other.  More chatting with various locals.  Fascinating stories.

Sarah and David

Our captain didn't want to stay too late as he preferred to dock while there was still a bit of light.  We bid everyone ado and pulled up the anchor.  In typical Trini fashion, the party was just getting started.  Most would limin into the early hours of the next day, staying overnight.

Mark on the aft deck

We had a blast.  Hopefully we will be around next year for the 5th annual!   

People are People - Venezuela Fishermen

Venezuela fishing boats

Oct 1st 2017
Thursday we planned a little lime at the pool in our marina.  Sv Tango and Sv Kelly Nicole.  I got up there just before the sky opened up dumping massive amounts of rain.  It also blew.  The others including Tom decided to wait it out on their boats.  However, I was not alone.  A group of four locals took refuge under the covered area, along with two Venezuelan fisherman.  I shared some channa (snacky food) with everyone.  The locals knew a little Spanish and began chatting with the fishermen.

The rain eased so the locals departed.  The fishermen knew very little English.  My Spanish is non-existent.  *Silly me....I took French in school despite growing up in a very Hispanic town.  Sigh.  However, soon we were trying to converse with much gesturing.  One of the first things we discussed was our presidents.  They said "President Maduro.....he loco."  I quickly countered "President Trump....he mucho loco."  We all three shook our heads sadly in agreement to both statements.  That out of the way, we continued to talk on a limited basis - person to person.

They work on one of the larger Trinidad fishing boats.  They started in January 2017.  Each time they leave Trinidad, they head up to St Vincent to take on bait fish and then out into the Atlantic.  They are usually gone for 25 days before returning to port.  The turn around is short before they head out again.  They are in port now a tad longer as the boat needs painting.  They will stay with the boat and fish through November.  Then they will return to Venezuela for the month of December.  Come January, they will start over again fishing.

They are both married, with two kids each.  Remember......very little English and near non-existent Spanish and yet.....we were communicating, sharing, learning.  Tom arrived as well as Stephan and Annika off sv Tango.  We offered the fishermen some cold beers and more channa to snack on.  Stephan and Annika had spent several months in Brazil when they crossed the Atlantic.  They knew a little Portuguese and started communicating with the fisherman via a combination of Portuguese and Spanish.  We all had another round of coldies.

After a bit, they disappeared to their boat, saying they would return soon.   When they came back, they had a HUGE bag filled with big, frozen fillets of cleaned fish - tuna and Mahi mahi!  It was at least 15 lbs of frozen fish.  We were blown away at this generous gift.  They just smiled.  Tom took it to sv Honey Ryder to put in the freezer, pulling out half for our Swedish friends.  When he returned, he brought a 4 page English to Spanish translation guide I bought this past summer. The youngest of the fisherman was very interested in this.  He used it to ask additional questions, as did we.  The gesturing continued as well along with head nods, smiles and laughs.  Did we understand everything they said?  No.  Did they understand everything we said?  No.  It didn't matter.  We simply enjoyed what we could understand as well as the process and effort.

We have seen them since a couple of times since - "Hola" we say.  "Hello" they say.   

Note -  The above picture is of Venezuela owned fishing boats.  These are very different in design than the regular fishing boats we are used to seeing.  These are wooden, low waterline and usually carrying a crew of 8 or more.  They often dock near sv Honey Ryder, rafting up side by side by side.  As we sit in our cockpit, we can't help but observe a little bit of life onboard these vessels.  It is fascinating.  It should be noted that the fishermen I mentioned above are not on vessels like this but instead a traditional, steel type fishing boat.  They are rare.  Generally those crews are Asian with American captains.

On The Front Lines Of Climate Change

Picture via FB Gallery Cafe in Carriacou

Sept 29th 2017
I am going to be political.  If you don't want or like that, don't read.  I am only going to publish limited comments if I receive any, and I will pick and chose comments I do publish.  This is my/our blog and I get to do that.  If you don't like it, write your own blog.

So much debate, truths, lies, controversy, and emotion surrounding climate change.  We are not going to talk specifics.  I just want to say that if you don't believe in climate change and you visit the Caribbean, keep that opinion to yourself.  These people are living climate change every day!  A few island elders have shared this first hand knowledge with us personally.  If you do visit and it comes up, perhaps instead of debating and trying to express YOUR side, maybe just listen.  Ask questions, gain another perspective based on experience. 

The Prime Minister of Dominica flew out of hurricane ravaged Dominica - where his own roof was ripped off during the storm - to address the United Nations on climate change.  His speech was articulate, passionate and from first hand experience aka the front lines.  You can read it HERE.  I hope you do.

Finally, I saw what I think is a brilliant response to most climate change debates.  I am only sorry I don't remember where or who posted this.  It went something like this....."Regardless of whether you think/believe climate change is real or not, shouldn't we want and strive towards clean air and water?"  Yes, yes we should.  End of debate.

Cat 5 Hurricane Marina - Weeping for Dominica and Others

Toni and Jeff - see the framed pic on the counter?

Sept 29^th 2017

This is Toni and her husband Jeff.  We met them in May 2017 in Dominica.  She is from Trinidad, he is from Dominica.  They met in Hawaii.  They came back to Dominica to start their life together.  They have two small children.  They built a lovely three story house.  Out in front of their house is a small roti/doubles/snack shop.  The land is family land on Jeff’s side.  He father grew up in a tiny 2 room house on that very land.  There is a framed picture on the counter of the snack shop of his father as a child at that house. Their plan is to live in the middle floor and make the top floor two separate apartments to rent out.  The bottom floor would be a market/wholesale place catering to visiting cruisers.  

Their house and business

We got to know them a little bit while we were in Dominica.  Lovely, warm people.  She and I have communicated via email a few times since.   She wrote to me in June to asking if we had safely arrived in Trinidad.  I wrote back saying we had and gave her a short update.  Mid summer I emailed her asking how they were doing.  She responded that they had gotten the market/wholesale area open on the first floor and they were excited for the coming cruising season.  Then hurricane Maria took aim on Dominica.  I emailed her right before.  I didn't really know what to say other than something like "We are thinking of you,. Be safe.  Good luck and please try to let us know you are ok after."  It felt like a weak and empty thing to say but it was all I had.  She emailed right back thanking me for my concern and letting me know that they were prepped and waiting.  Ugh! 

Our hiking guide Ian.  He lived right on a river in Portsmouth.  I hope he is ok. We don't know.

Maria decimated Dominica.  She also went on to ravage St Croix and Puerto Rico.  Report began to trickle out but very slowly.  Very few came out of Dominica.  Eventually, more reports and then pictures started surfacing.  Our worst fears, near total destruction.  I think something like 95% of all structures have sustained some sort of damage.  I need to remind you now, that Dominica was hit by tropical storm Erika two years ago.  That storm brought record rains that in turn caused massive flooding and numerous mudslides that took out over half the roads and hundreds of homes.  33 people died in TS Erika.  The country had only just recovered.  

Taken in 2016 from TS Erika in 2015

It is also important to remember that Dominica is it's own sovereign country with no strong motherland behind her.  Additionally, Dominica is one of the poorest countries in the eastern Caribbean.  Without a large, international airport, the tourist trade that most of these islands depend on doesn't happen on the same level in Dominica.  Despite that challenge, they have come a long way in developing not only a small tourist trade but ecotourism.  A perfect fit for all the natural beauty that is Dominica with 7 extinct volcanoes, 360+ rivers,  hiking trails, the boiling lake, whales and so much more.  

Middleham falls 2016

The cruising community LOVES Dominica.  Nearly everyone stops there while sailing north and south each season.  While several islands got hard hit this hurricane season and many are suffering, this fondness and the above facts are the reason that much of the cruiser related efforts at hurricane relief is focused on Dominica.  Martinique cruisers, Grenada cruisers and Trinidad cruisers have all mobilized with locals on each island to collect needed items and money.  Yachts and a tug have been loaded and have sailed for Dominica.  Additional will be following.  At great risk to themselves and their vessels, I might add. 

sv Endorfin II on the way to the Boiling Lake 2016

As cruisers, sometimes we get lucky and come to know locals on a personal level.  That is one of the magical things about this life, the wonderful people we meet.  This gives us a personal connection to a place and let's us get a glimpse into another culture.  When a natural tragedy or other strikes in that far off place.... like the Caribbean, we can no longer say "Oh, how sad for those people."  Instead we are invested, we know that place personally, we have a connection.  Our acquaintances/friends are there.  They may/are affected.  It pains and worries us.  Often we are called to response action somehow.  These connections and understanding of another place and people make this world a better place.  Especially during the bad times.  One race = the human race.  

Greg our boat guy in Roseau 2016.  I hope he is ok.  We don't know.

There are also additional cruiser efforts for other islands and individual causes and individual families.  We all know someone that was affected this hurricane season, some worse than others.  I just thought I might explain why it may seem like the cruising community is so focused on Dominica and to a lesser extent, Barbuda.  That tiny island is part of the sovereign nation of Antigua and Barbuda.  Again, hit head on by cat 5 Irma and again, no strong motherland behind her.  All 1800 inhabitants of Barbuda were forced to leave their island.  Did you get that.....they had to completely leave the island because the destruction was SO complete!  It is the first time in 300 years that the island had been without people.    

Famous guide Seacat making lunch at Boiling Lake in 2016.  I hope he is ok.  We don't know.  His house is right on the water.

Back to Toni and Jeff - We waited and waited to hear from her.  I scoured the internet for information on the damage in Portsmouth where Toni and Jeff live, hoping for some sort of update.  As I mentioned above, communication out of Dominica was very slow in coming with many, many areas completely cut off from the outside world or even from the government of Dominica itself.  Finally, this week on Wednesday Sept 27th I emailed Toni asking "Are you all alive?  Are you ok?"  I let her know that relief efforts had started in Trinidad, Grenada and Martinique...."Help is on the way.  Hang on"   She responded back late in the day they were alive and ok!  *I am tearing up now as I write this.  So emotional.  It seems they are US citizens (probably when they lived in Hawaii) and therefore were able to evacuate on Monday Sept 25th to Trinidad, several days after the hurricane hit.  She said their house and business was damaged but not nearly as bad as many others.  She added that Dominica is in real trouble.  "They need food and medical supplies now!  People are or have run out of food.  The main hospital in Portsmouth was damaged and needs supplies."   We were SO relieved and yet heartbroken at her report of the conditions.  She said they will stay in Trinidad for two weeks and then head to Texas to stay with family there for a while.  She didn't say when they would return to Dominica.  Think of all the thousands of people that were not able to evacuate.   

Young guide on our Boiling Lake hike 2016.  I hope he is ok.  We don't know.

I mentioned above how it felt weak and empty saying "Thinking of you.  Be safe.  Good luck and please let us know you are ok when you can".  It's more than that, you feel helpless to do anything - before, during and after.   Social media has been filled with images, reports and stories of all the destruction.  Most of us hit the cry emoji and make a comment, something along the lines of "heartbreaking"  but those are the same.....weak and empty.  Make no mistake - it is a horrible thing to have to send an email out with the subject line "Are you alive?  Are you ok?"   I think everyone was just so shocked and stunned.  We didn't know what to do.  But relief efforts soon fired up.  Links to organizations to donate money to or specific GoFundMe.  As well as the the above cruiser/local relief efforts to gather food and supplies to send.  

The people of these islands are strong.  They will rebuild.  This I know.  But they need help from all of us.  ALL of us!!  One race = human race!

The Shape Of Carnival - Trinidad Carnival 2016

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

I have shared a lot with you in regards to carnival in Trinidad but I must share one more thing.  It is an important item.  I want to talk about the shape of carnival.  

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

I mentioned in a previous post and no doubt you noticed in the pics, that the masqueraders costumes are generally on the small side.....aka skimpy.  Trinidad is no different than other countries in the world, in that  they are struggling with expanding waistlines too.  The highest volume KFC in the Caribbean is supposedly in Port of Spain Trinidad.  

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

However, when it comes to playing mas, size and age didn't seem to matter.  We saw all ages of adults and all sizes.  ALL SIZES!  No one seemed to care that their body wasn't perfect.  They still wore the beaded up - sparkly bikini with a mass of feathers.  A 42 year old woman with say maybe three kids at home -  no problem.  She was sporting the same Brazilian cut bikini Mas costume as the 25 year old chipping next to her.  The same is true for guys.  We saw several older guys chipping along with rum guts (Caribbean beer belly). 

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

Everyone here seemed to be so confident in their own skin.  It really came through.  They were out on de road,  playing Mas, chipping and having a good time.  Total body confidence with a big dose of Who Cares!  

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

It was quite refreshing.  No, it was fantastic!  So much so, that it has been the topic of several discussion with various cruisers in the past week since carnival.  I really can't think of an equivalent situation in the USA where a mass quantity of women in their 20's, 30's, 40's, 50's 60's+ would feel as confident marching/dancing in a parade in their swimsuits for 12 hours.  I loved it.  Both Adventure Sarah and Sarah off sv Cape expressed how amazing and brilliant they thought it was and echoing the same.... that there isn't the same body confidence among women in the UK.  

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

I am telling you it was powerful to witness and left me feeling empowered in my shape.

All sizes, shapes and ages (adults) - beautiful

Tom's New Career

Tyrrel Bay Carriacou
January 2016
I have mentioned several times before how harsh the environment can be when living aboard.  Everything seems to breakdown so quickly.  Everything.  This includes our shoes.  Okay.....Keens and flip flops are the extent of our shoes but they still seems to breakdown rather quickly.  But then again, we wear them everyday.  In true cruiser fashion, Tom has taken to fixing our shoes to get just a little more life out of them.  He has become rather good at it, testing various glues, epoxies and even hand stitching in some cases.  Currently his favorite is contact cement.

New Career?  Possibly.  Yesterday we were ashore running errands.  Our last stop was at the chicken ladies shop to buy chicken and eggs.....but not necessarily in that order!  Get it?  Bahahahaha.  Anyway, she was dragging one foot around and explained that her new shoes "only one month old" were broken.  The sole was coming off and thus flapping around.  She was very disgusted.  "One month I've had these."  So I said "My husband fixes shoes.  Do you want him to fix yours?"  She glanced at us and just sort of passed it off.  Tom got the chicken and I got the eggs (no order - same time) and he went to pay. Tom said "Seriously, do you want me to fix your shoe?  I can."  She looked at me.  "Really.  He can.  He fixes our shoes all the time." I said.  Carefully she said "Okay, but when can I get it back?  I need it back.  I must have it back.  When will you bring it?  AND....No charge, right?"

Tom assured her that he could and would have it back to her in 1 1/2 hours and NO charge.  She reluctantly took off both shoes to give to Tom.  But before handing them to him, she first reached for a plastic bag.  I was about to tell her we could just put her shoes in our bag when she put the bag on her sock covered foot.  Then she took another plastic bag and did the same to the other foot.  I guess she didn't want her socks to get dirty but it seemed to me that wearing plastic bags around over stocking feet might be dangerous.  Why not just take off your socks and go barefoot?  But what do I know.  Or more importantly, what does she know about NOT going barefoot that we don't?  Hum?  

 

Anyway, Tom fixed both shoes - the other needed help as well - and got them back to her in plenty of time.  She was very happy and quizzed him about his repair techniques.  

Update - We have stopped in a couple of times since to get eggs and or a chicken (not necessarily in that order) and she reports that her Tom repaired shoes are still going strong.   

Caribbean Seasons

A couple of readers have asked about seasons down here in the Caribbean.  There are two seasons - rainy and dry.  We are currently in the rainy season.  It rains nearly every day but usually these are short and over quickly.  However, we do have days where it rains off and on all day, sometimes with heavy downpours.  For example - when were we just pulling in to the dirt (mud) lot from a big shopping trip to Price Mart (like Costco) and had multiple, multiple arm loads of groceries and supplies.  We looked like drowned rats by the time we got it all back to the boat. 


An important part of the morning net is the weather report not only for those trying to find a weather window to depart but also for those trying to complete weather sensitive boat projects like sanding/varnishing, bottom painting, waxing/buffing, rigging, etc....  But we all know this when we come down here and we adjust.  I simply do what the locals do and roll with my umbrella in my bag at all times.  Still beats snow, ice, coats, gloves and such.

  

Taste of Trini Tour - T3

The T3 gang - BA pic

T to the Power of Three is what our group nicknamed this famous tour.  It all started from a brief discussion with T3 veteran Bruce (s/v Wild Matilda) on what to take along on our tour.  He agreed a bottle of water was a must and also suggested that he was going to take a towel or small washcloth since we would basically be eating in the van the whole day.  I laughed and said "Too bad we don't have any of those bibs you get a seafood restaurants in the US."  Later Tom and I were talking and decided that bibs would be a great idea and T3 was born.  A few days passed, and I was in Port of Spain where I found a package of brightly colored wash clothes and some purple ribbon - instant bibs, no sewing needed.  I used a big Sharpie to apply the T3 and we were set for the big day.

Jesse James (Member's Only) in his T3 bib - BA pic

T3 is a world famous tour.  Local maxi and tour operator Jesse James hosts this tour himself, sharing his love and passion for his country by driving a van full of guests around the island all day tasting various foods and drinks.  Yes, you heard right.....this tour is basically cruising around the island for 12 hours eating, drinking and learning about Trinidad.  AWESOME!

Local stand selling rough skin lemons (rare) and other fresh fruits and veg - BA pic

But seriously, it's a terrific way to learn about the rich and diverse cultures that make up a country and specifically in this case, Trinidad.

Doubles stand for the doubles virgins

Our group consisted of 8 cruisers plus Jesse.  Bill and Sharon (s/v Casa Blanca - fellow Caliber 40 owners, woot woot), Chris and Margret (s/v Storm Bay - as Aussies, the international contingent), Steve (s/v Slow Flight), Bruce (s/v Wild Matilda -and as I mentioned before, veteran T3 having gone 4 times before on the tour on previous visits to Trinidad) and of course us. 

My T3 bib - BA pic

Jesse picked us up promptly at 9am and we surprised him and the other participants with the official T3 bibs.  Jesse loved it.  Inside disclosure - Jesse keeps his van immaculate and the thought of being the one to spill inside the van worried me.  The bibs were a form of self protection for me and the poor van!

Bhagi, smoked herring, fried aloo and roast bake - BA pic

So off we went.  But actually we drove 25 yards down the side of the road to a food stall outside Powerboat Boatyard for our first sampling.  Even though it was right in our backyard so to speak, none of us had ever been to this food stall.

Fancy food stand.  Most are a tent and card table - BA pic

And so the day went.  Jesse would pull over, dash out of the van and then bring back a sampling of whatever food/drink/fruit/sweet/etc....then he or Bruce would divide it up, giving us all a little sample.  We tried many, many, many, many unusual and yummy things.

Saheena and kachouri

Bruce played official photographer.  Thank you Bruce for all the wonderful pics.  Tom was our official scribe keeping track of all the things we sampled.

Bruce cutting up a custard apple

Which brings up another important factor.  I told you this tour is world famous as is Jesse.  He does this trip many times during the year.  Each time the tour is slightly different depending on where he goes, what is open and in season.  For whatever reason, a "challenge" has developed to see if each group can break the record for number of things tasted.  The current record stands at 99.  We did not break that.  However, we did darn good at 86.  We were "full as ticks" when we waddled back to our boats 12 hours later.   

Mauby drink - popular but many versions and not all taste alike

I am not going to bore you with detailed description of all 86 items and pics of all.  However, I will list them all out and of course give you plenty of pics to make you drool.  Big thanks again to Bruce for sharing his pics.  I got a few good ones but the bulk of what you see are his - labeled BA for credit.

Chris and Margaret s/v Storm Bay

We had a spectacular day.  Our group was fun and interactive, trying everything and peppering Jesse with a wide variety of questions.  A few in the group were.....ahem....doubles virgins when we departed but returned that evening virgins no more!  Ha!  We all agreed that what we learned about Trinidad food on this tour will and has helped us expand our knowledge on what we order when eating out at a restaurant or food stand and also in what we buy at the fresh market.       

Doubles virgins no more - BA pic

If you ever come to Trinidad, you simply MUST to this tour.  Hands down, one of the best tours we've ever taken anywhere.

Green curry mango (on plate), plums (in sack at bottom), sour cherries (in sack on right) - BA pic

 

Summary for Taste of Trinidad 11-12-2015 with Jesse James

1.)  Pick up at 9:00 sharp.  First stop is roadside stand outside Powerboats

·         Roast Bake – flat bread, not fried

·         Bhaji – greens

·         Smoked Herring

          Aloo (potato) fried

         

A hoppin place -BA pic

  

2.)  Westside Cuisine at Caranage

·         Cheese Pie

·         Meat Pie

·         Fried Bake

·         Saltfish Buljol

·         Pommecythere Chutney (golden apple)

Yummies from Frankies - BA pic

3.)  Frankies on Aripita Avenue in Woodbrook

·         Sada Roti (without split peas)

·         Baigan Choka (smoked eggplant puree)

·         Tomato Choka

·         Fried Okra

·         Bitter Melon (actually a vegetable)

Just what it says - Cow Heel Soup Centre

4.)  Cow Heel Soup Center on Aripita Avenue, Woodbrook

·         Cow Heel Soup with potato and dumpling

BA pic

5.)  Tasty Pies, a roadside stand in downtown Port of Spain – three pies:

·         Vegetable

·         Macaroni

·         Fish

Portugals - BA pic

6.)  Fruit stand outside of downtown Port of Spain

·         Portugals – similar to Clementine Oranges

Tom goes for the HOT peppa double

7.)  Doubles stand in corner parking lot outside of Port of Spain - Tom trying SUPER hot peppa sauce

·         Doubles

·         Saheena

·         Kachouri

·         Bighani Pie

Black and red sorrel

8.)  Roadside stand just past Doubles stand

·         Red and Black Sorrel

BBQ pigtail, macaroni pie and fried casava

9.)  Small cafe in town of Velencia

·         BBQ Pig Tail

·         Macaroni Pie

·         Fried Casava

·         Chicken Pelau Rice

·         Coleslaw

Chiki Toe banana

10.)  Small café in Sangre Grande

·         Callaloo Rice

·         Dahl Sauce

·         Green figs

·         Stewed Pork

·         Sweet Potato

·         Mauby drink

·         Bananas – Chiki Toe and Silk Fig

·         Soursop

·         Sugar Apple

Soursop fruit - BA pic

Me devouring the soursop

11.)  Roadside stand in Sangre Grande

·         Rambutan – small red spiky fruit

Rumbutan and peanut punch - BA pic

12.)  S and S Roti Shop in Sangre Grande

·         Potato and Chana Curry

·         Curry Pumpkin

·         Chicken Curry Gizzard

·         Fried Shark

·         Stewed Chicken

·         Roti Bread – Dahl Puri

·         Curry Mango

·         Sorrell Drink and Peanut Punch

All of the above from S and S minus the drinks - BA pic

Stopped at Manzanilla Beach for a picnic lunch where a stray dog ran off with a package of Dahl Puri.  The rain came and we ate in the van.

Hungry dahl puri theif

13.)  Watermelon stand on Manzanillo Beach Road

·         Watermelon 

I know they look like olives but they are Trinidad plums.  Similar texture to olives, different taste

14.)  Roadside stand just past Mayaro

·         Coconut candy – like a red sugar cake

·         Green Mango Candy

·         Plums (more like olives)

·         Sour Cherry

·         Tamarind Ball (brown sugar lump)

Tamarind balls, sour cherries, plums

15.)  Hoseins Bakery in Rio Claro

·         Coconut Ballerina – rolled red cake

·         Casava Pone (like a bread pudding)

·         Soursop Punch

·         Bread Pudding

·         Fruit Slice Bread

·         Coconut Turnover

·         Pommecythere Fruit

·         Coconut Drop

Pommecythere fruit - golden apple - BA pic

16.)  Bakery truck that passed by while we were stopped at a small lumberyard

·         Custard Pie

·         Red Cake

Coconut Ballerina - BA pic

17.)  Clieves Bar in Tabaquite

·         Roasted Port Cutters

·         Kurma (like cinnamon sticks)

·         Fruit Slice (heavy cake aka Bellyfull)

·         Coconut Bisquit

·         Phdouri (donut holes)

·         Tullum (Toolum – molasses and coconut balls)

Fence?  What fence?

18).  Stop to trespass on farmland to collect fruit (we later learn the land is owned by Jessie’s uncle)

·         Cocoa Beans

·         Grapefruit

19.)  An unknown café/bar on the way to Chaguanas

·         BBQ Chicken Cutters

·         Custard Apple

Busting open the "liberated" coco beans for a sample

      

20.)  El Pecos, Trinidadian fast food buffet on Aripita Avenue

·         Festive Rice

·         Baked Fish

·         Baked Lentils

·         BBQ Lamb

·         Macaroni Salad

·         Spicy Pickle Salad

·         Corn Pie

·         Jerk Pork

·         Portugal Juice

·         Passion Fruit Juice

$150 TT per 750 ml - $24 US

    

Total of 86 different items

Also purchased limes and honey (Seenath’s in Manzanilla (1084 Eastern Main Road)