Union Island January 2016

Union Island and specifically Clifton means a couple of things to us.

Many open spots after the morning charter boat exodus - really!

It is not as easy as it looks

1.)  It is a crowded, tough anchorage.  Once we get in and finally get set, it's great.  We like Clifton.  But man, finding an open spot with good holding while the boat guys circle and anchored captains stand on deck with their bitch wings out is still a tad stressful for us.  We had some extra excitement this year when later a couple sailed in at night under sail alone.  To be clear - NO engine, at night, actually tacking through a very crowed and tight anchorage with a big shoal in the middle and a reef in front, where at least 1/3 of the boats have no lights.  They nearly caught our anchor rode and actually did momentarily get caught up on the anchor rode of the big steel German boat next to us.  Exciting stuff! 

Kite surf rescue

2.)  Union Island and Clifton mean kite surfing.  It's a free show everyday.

This year we saw something new.  Two kite surfers had boards that were essentially hydrofoils.  Check out the video.  

Union Island Radio

Tiny airport on Union Island

There is a guy that comes on the VHF radio each morning at 7:45 am for a short informational net of his own.  He starts with the weather.  He gives the temps in various cold places around the world...."In Moscow it's -5F.  In Chicago it's -7F." etc, and then finally in contrast..... "The local weather in sunny Clifton, Union Island is 23C or 73F."  Then he gives the forecasted weather.  He reports the schedule for the various ferries that day, if the bank is open and what the hours of operation are and most importantly whether the ATM is working, with an added "good luck with that" just in case it quits working.  He announces meal specials at a few local spots adding humor as he goes "Rumor has it Seckies is out of Vanessa's famous goat curry for the moment."  It's a delightful net.  If you are ever at Union Island, be sure to listen.

3 big piles of lambi shells

Squally Day

Windy reef

Tues Jan 13th, 2015

It blew like crazy last night.  Probably the highest winds we have had yet here in Clifton on Union Island.  Our anchor has held well through all the windy days but we had to wonder about the forces tugging on it last night.  Tom opted to sleep in the salon/saloon just in case he need to get up quickly, but we did fine.  However, when morning came with another round of squalls, things weren't so fine. Three boats ended up dragging anchor.  One American boat near us got tangle up in the long bowsprit of an old schooner.  The same schooner we were originally anchored in front of.  It took a boat boy to get them off the schooner bowsprit and after 20 mins of struggling, they finally got re-anchored.  Action was taken in time with the other boats so nothing serious happened.  The old schooner's bowsprit is a beefy one and sustained no damage.  The bimini frame on the American boat took the brunt of the encounter and ended up pretty mangled.  The odd thing was that no one drug during the night when the winds were highest.....to our knowledge.

Windy anchorage

Anyway, we decided to pull up anchor and head to the leeward side of the island.  We were nearly ready to go when some fishermen (Sweet Deal)came by with fish for us.  Payment from boat boy Buddha for recovering his lost mooring line from the sea floor the day before.....or so we thought.  It turned out it was payment from him in the form of a discounted fish to buy, not free.  But we didn't discover this until after the transaction.  Oh well.  Lesson learned and we got a fabulous, fresh tuna!  We cut it up further, bagging most for the grill later, while enjoying sashimi for lunch.

Sweet Deal cleaning and cutting up the tuna

Now what?

Steaks bagged for grilling later, stew pieces and sashimi lunch

We finally pulled up anchor around 13:30.  I motored very slowly out of the anchorage thus letting a squall pass just ahead of us.  Then with the headsail partially out, we were broad reaching along nicely.  On the south side of the island we jibed in order to sail around to the leeward side of the island.  We were nearly there when another squall rolled through, this one catching us.  Gusty wind and rain accompanied us into Chatham Bay around 14:40.  Then it moved on, leaving only a light drizzle for us to anchor in.  Both s/v Honey Ryder and us got a needed wash down and then it was over. Dinner was of course grilled tuna.  Yum!

Delish!

Kite Surfing School On Union Island

Kite surfering show - neighbor on the bow of his boat watching

Tom =" It doesn't look all that hard.  I mean they make it look easy."

Sabrina = "Yes, exactly.....they make it look easy."

Tom = "These people learned.  Doesn't that mean others  I could too?" 

Sabrina = "Yes.  Did you notice that nearly all of them are quite a bit younger than us?  Quite a bit!"

Tom = "Yes, but there is one guy that looks older, like our age."

Sabrina = "Tasha of the blog Turf to Surf is much younger, super athletic and still ended up in the hospital in the DR when she went to kite surfing school there.  According to her, It is NOT easy." 

Tom = "Okay, but don't you think it's pretty Kewl?"
Sabrina = "Yes it is and you would probably be pretty good at it."
Sabrina = Inside my head "Rut-Row!"

Kites on the beach during a break in the action

This was the on and off conversation as we sat anchored behind Newlands Reef on Union Island.  The bow of our boat the perfect front row seat to all the kite surfers zooming by.  It was a spectacular show that ran everyday from 7am to dark, often times with up to 10 kite surfers performing for us.  A guy on a boat near by had a cast on one foot and sat on his bow each day taking the show in.  *Do you think the cast on the foot is a coincidence?  I think not!

Union Island boasts one of the few kite surfing schools in the Caribbean.  The reef is the perfect setting and brings eager students and seasoned kite surfers from around the world.  

Kite Suring beach shack

Finally we Tom stopped by the office in Clifton to inquire.  The owner was very honest with Tom.  Lessons are one on one, $250 for three hours and that includes rental of the kite surfing gear.  Most students require 3-4 lessons to get it. The people we have been watching aren't beginners.  Those he takes around the corner to Frigate Island to learn where it's more protected.  The people we are watching have graduated and are practicing along with the seasoned kite surfers.  Oh....wow.  They really do make it look easy.  After learning there is also the matter of your own gear.  Tom decided he would stick to his newly acquired scuba skills and continue down that path for now.  

We did visit the kite school beach shack where they hang out and launch.  Very Kewl setting.  Who wouldn't want to be a part of that!  We observed several sun bleached- bronzed skin- tattooed up- 20 somethings all there to kite surf with a few groupies thrown in for good measure. Similar crowd to many surfing hot spots we have visited in the previous decade or so.  There were four towheaded guys with Dutch accents.  I overheard one tell someone they went to Brazil in Sept 2014 to kite surf seriously and since have been roaming around surfing various locales, and pushing each other to the next level.  One of his mates busted out a very nice camera, big lens and tripod to photograph his buddies.  Cha-Ching.  Many things about this sport/hobby scream money.  However, the flip side is two local hotshots that showed up out on the reef every afternoon late - possibly after work, and just rip it up.  Nice to see both.  I guess it's similar to sailing, many jump to the assumption that it is expensive and takes gobs of money.  Well....it can be.  However, a simple little boat on a simple body of water doesn't cost all that much.  It just depends and so I guess the same goes for kite surfing.  

So if you want to learn to kite surf while on holiday, Clifton on Union Island might be a good spot.  

Union Island Boat Boys

Boat Boy Romeo in Tobago Cays

We have found these guys to be curtious and polite.  First of all, we were not bombarded.  Only one guy approached us initially.  When we declined a mooring ball, he simply moved on.  When he saw us a little while later still trying to anchor, he came back around and checked with us again but not overly pushy.  Subsequent guys approached us to see if we needed/wanted various services.  Once we declined, they just moved on, no worries.  This was true of the fish guy, the trash guy and the BBQ to your boat guy.  Yes, you heard right....BBQ delivered to your boat.  Well of course Tom had to get the details on that offer!  For $120 EC Clem (boat named Fair Deal) will bring 2 BBQ dinners to your boat.  We found that a bit high priced for us.  However we engaged him more to find out what was happening locally and he gave the inside on local BBQ ashore for $20 EC each.  Thanks Clem.

All the boat boys we have observed here have colorful, big Carriacou built boats with nice sized outboards and plenty of fenders to avoid scuffing visiting boats when they tie up alongside.  Boat boys in other locations don't have as plentiful of fenders (like Grenada and Carriacou) and should perhaps up their fenderage.  Additionally, they all appear to be vey competent boat operators and most can maneuver a boat like a graceful dance!

Tiny village of Clifton

Some cruisers get so upset over boat boys.  There are anchorages that have reports of very aggressive boat boys that use questionable tactics but we have not found that to date.  We don't begrudge these guys at all.  It is their country/island and they are trying to make a simple living in a place where the opportunities are somewhat limited.  A walk ashore in Union island substantiated that.  In visiting with some locals, we learned that more Unionites live abroad than on the island.  I guess it's no different than a tiny town in rural anywhere.  The young kids leave for opportunities in bigger towns.  Education is another factor.  Any secondary education means taking the ferry each morning to St Vincent.  Post secondary means St Vincent or Grenada or further afield.  

Update - We moved over to Chatham Bay on the leeward side of Union Island.  A lovely, protected bay that doesn't get much traffic do to lack of services ashore.  Fine by us.  We entered on the tail of a squall.  Only one boat boy approached us.  He suggested we anchor closer along the north edge "less wind". We opted for the spot we were already headed for.  After we got our anchor set he approached again.  We said hello and engaged him to get the lowdown on the place.  Bushman wanted us to come to his restaurant on the beach for dinner.  Too expensive for us.  Tom inquired about lunch but we made no promises.  We told him we had big tuna to eat.  Yay!!!  He said he would check in with us in the morning for ice, trash and bread.  Tom inquired on the bread and made a deal to buy a loaf of whole wheat.  Later a second boat boy came along.  He was very laid back.  He knew Bushman had been by.  He said "I just want to let you know what I have offer."  Secky had similar items ashore plus a taxi for taking people to customs in Clifton and fresh fruits and veggies available.  We told him we stocked up in Clifton, purchasing from Jenny -" Oh, ok.  You bought from Jenny.  No problem, man."  It seems to help to mention other locals by name.  We never did get our wheat bread "It finished this morning.  No bread when I pass by." meaning the bakery was out of bread.  

Additional Update - We have found the same with the boat boys on Mayreau, Tobago Cays and Bequia.  Once we told them we didn't need anything, they left us alone and simply waved when they went by.  
Again, local people trying to make a living and we respect them for it. 

Carriacou to Union Island

Front row behind the reef

January 8th, 2015
20.4 nautical miles was our total trip.  Union is to windward of Carriacou.....so what does that mean dear readers?  Think hard.  You know this by now.....wind on the nose!  However, this passage we had time to sail (despite a later than planned departure - see Dirty Laundry) so we pointed the bow northwest, set the reefed sails for a close haul and took off at 6+ knots.  We sailed until we were nearly even with the top (north) of Union Island.  Then we tacked back to the southeast, towards the windward side of Carriacou.  When we were about even with Frigate Island (just south of Union) we were contemplating a tack so we could furl the main and start motoring directly into the wind and towards our anchorage at Clifton, however the helm didn't want to respond.  Hum?  Very odd.  I had a sneaking suspicion in the back of my mind but didn't say anything.  We regained control and I turned on the engine.  Because of my suspicion, I was very careful and immediately shut the engine back down as a huge, terrible noise came from under the boat.  Not good!  A broken up fishing float, two actually shot out behind sv Honey Ryder.  Oh shit!  We had sailed over a  couple of big fishing floats.  Not good!  Not good at all!  I was concerned that despite immediately shutting the engine back down we still may have wrapped some of the line around the prop and shaft.  Don't forget we only have 1/2 of a line cutter on the prop.  The other 1/2 is missing and we have yet to replace it.  *Getting the correct one has turned out to be a bit tougher than we thought.  Luckily, we were in open water and not near any of the numerous reefs in the area. Tom said "turn the engine on and see what happens."  I did and then carefully I put it into gear with my hand ready to take it back to neutral if needed.  It sounded ok and we slowly moved forward.  Whew!  I guess 1/2 of a line cutter saved us this time.  **Note to self, locate and get the line cutter ordered!!!

Close neighbor in windy conditions - big fun

We motored into the Clifton, Union Island anchorage and started our search for an anchoring spot.  We declined the boat boys moorings as we couldn't be certain of how the moorings are secured to the sea floor.  It's better to be on our own anchor.  We tried 3 different spots before settling in on anchor directly in front of an old 2 mast schooner.  I mean Right in front of it!  40 feet in front!  AND, this schooner has a 15 ft wooden bowsprit.  Yes, it seems we have become the people who anchor too close.  Crap!  I don't want to be those people.  Ugh!  But we were holding so we launched the dinghy and Tom went to check us in with immigration and customs.  I stayed aboard and on anchor watch.  I finally decided that we weren't moving and shut off the engine but left the key in the ignition just in case I needed to fire her up quickly.  Tom returned, we lowered our yellow quarantine flag and hoisted the St Vincent Grenadines flag.  We limed for a bit in the cockpit and watched as more boats came and went.  It was windy.  Then Tom dove on the anchor and found we were not set at all.  We raised the anchor and moved over to where a charter boat had just left.  Tom dove the anchor and we got a good set but we ended up 30 ft in front of a small sailboat.  Crap, crap, crap....we really are becoming the people who anchor too close.  Ugh!  But we were holding and the little sailboat seems to be used only during the day by a guy that is kite surfing the reef.  That does not excuse us anchoring too close but he wasn't there on his deck in his speedo to dissuade us - see Anchoring Stare.  Never the less, when the wind picked up around 9pm, I started anchor watch.  We held through the night so I guess we"ll stay put.

Tight anchorage

Update - We stayed 5 nights in Clifton during which many boats came and went and the wind blew and blew and blew.  We continued to hold fast.  A follow up anchor check showed our anchor continued to dig in more and more.  The anchorage was such that anchoring was tight at times.  We ended up with a catamaran 20 feet in front of us - ok 30 but it looked like 20 and another boat near our starboard bow.  It was good practice for us to experience these tight conditions but a little more space is our preference and generally what we have.